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600016894Y

T R E A T jl S E

mm'i^mmt

■ ■ ■ < ■■ ■ ■

/'•v

CYDER-MAKING,

iP O U N D E D

On long-pR ACTicE and Experience j

WITH

A Catalogue of Cydee-Apples of Character, in

Herefirti^re 2txiA Dewtnjhire,

Their* different QuALiTisa and Applications in makinjgf
; either Mellow or Rough Cyder i and the whole Procefs

of Cyder-Making throoghout*

* •

* With lirsTRXTCTioNS for mclioratbg C*der^

Preservatives, tod Remedies for preventing and curing thev

Plfeafes incident to Cyder.

To which is i^w^ed^ .

Ji. DissERTATiorron Cyder and Cyder-Frdit,;, /

By. HUGH StAFFO R D, Efqj [

ijpf PvKEs in Devonshire* ft

Honos erit buic - j«^^^ Pcmo ?^ ^ ^ Hor»

JS^at Soil Jbt Apple Ipvis^^ what Cdri^^^ . ^

1^0 Orchards^ timelieft when to fre^s 'tie Fruits^

tfy jQifft Pomona; ■■ Vhilup^ \

a.; O H X) O N.7 .

Printed^ibrE. CAVBi^irt St.'Jfffi&ys Gate* MDcCuii. jf

>,[PritcTwd Shilling?.!, . * . >< :

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• - I »

.J r..--y

j TSI b " * ^**lt ^ A «» % ^*

a r% ^ ' * - /"* r^i pi '<

•mmmt^mim'mm^^^m

( ia )

PRE FACE.

AS my principal inducement to publifh the
following treatife, is the advantage which
may be derived from it, by thofe who are
interefted in the making of Cyder^ all imaginable
care has been taken to comprehend every neceflary
caution and inftrudion, with which long expe-
rience has acquainted me, under a few heads, and
to exprefs them with brevity and perlpicuity, I
kave alio prefixed a differtation on Cyder and
Cyder-fruit, by Hugh Strafford^ Efq; of Pirns in
Devonjhirey which is a valuable addition to a trea-
tife, teaching how to make Cyder ; as it will enable
- the maker to chufe luch fruit als is moft fit for his

A 2 purpofe,

. ..?

r '3t.< '

iv PREFACE.

purpofe, whatever kind of liquor he intends to

produce.

Some degree of this koowte^e has indeed been
lately acquired, and Cyder has in proportion been
more generally drank. Some liiccdsful attemptshave
been made to diftiiiguifh, among' diflerent kindsof
fruit, that which would make a rough Cyder, and
give fuch a poignancy to the Iweet as would not
only preferve it longer, but render it more lig^t,
wholefome and pleafant, ' Some improvements
have been made in the do&ine of fermentation,
and fome progrefs has been made in the art of pre-
paring the latter fruits, and maturating their juices-
before breaking the pulp.

But this knowledge is far from being either-
general or perfea. As the procefs is not regulated
by certain rules, fuccefs is frequently the eSe& of,
chance, and the fame perfon cannot from the lame'
fruit, always produce the fame liquor. As Cyder
therefore is generally allowed to be an wholefome

drink.

PREFACE. V

drink, and as it is the natural produce of our
own country, he will furely be thought to con-
tribute fomething towards the good of the public,
who gives infallible direflions for making it uni-
verfally agreeable, by varrying it fo as to fuit every
palate, and by improving the flavour and the qua-
lity, both of the rough and the fmooth, divefting
it of its tendency to produce cholics, and giving it
the Iparkle of Champaign, without an eager and
windy fermentation, and rendering it more Spiri-
tuous than a fmall wine tho' lefs inflaming.

CONTENTS

ji^iiiip

THE

CONTENTS

j4 Diflertation on Cyd;er and Cyder-Fruit, by Hugh
-^^ StraflFord, o^ Pines in Devonfhire, Efq^ Page i

SECT. I.

A Catalogue of Cyder-Apples in Herefordfliire afidDevoti"
fliirc, with their excettencies and hijiory. ij

SECT. II.

Of coHe&ing Cyder-Fruits into heaps ^ in order for the con^
tinuing therein as kmg as is confijient for the maturation of
the juices. 33

S E C T-

\- ^

The C ON TENT a.

SECT. m.

DireOions for breaking the pulf of Apples mtb proper
engmei. Page 36

SECT. IV.

©^ the management of the pmnmce or broken pul^ of the
Apples before exprejjing the juice. 37

SECT. V.

Of the wrings or preffes^ cheefeSy &c, and proper veffels for
receiving the Cyder from them. 38

SECT. VI.

Of proper veffels for receiving the Cyder for its fermentation y
the vigilance^ exaSi care and attention required in thefirjl
fermentation of Cyder for making it fweeiy and as long as
it continues in a fermenting flat e. 48

SECT. VII.

"^meMsproprr to be ufed in preparing cafis^ racks, See. to
receive it j. and how rackings are performed. 52

SEC T.

A.J^%k

The C O N T E N T 8.

•»

SECT. VIIL

Erejervatives and remedies for preventing and curing
fiempers wbicb are incident to Cyder^ witb inftruSHms for
colouring it^ &c. &c. P, 54

SUPPLEMENT.

Containing fome ^reStions omitted in their proper places^ 62 to 68

POSTSCRIPT.

Defcription of a Prefs omtted in its proper Place,
With a Cut,

65
68

ERRATA.

Pagt 7. Lim 33, for Tring, nod Teing.

19. /• 2. jir often, nad fometimes.

20. /. 29. fir Annington, nad Armington.
25. /. 20. fir faulty, nad fatty.

31. /. 1 8. /«r uoicquainted, r/^i acquainted.
34. A 8. fir rankneft, nad rancidnefs.
46. /. 18. fir air bag, nad hair bag.
48. /. 16. fir Clivc, nad Cuvc.
ibid. /. uli. fir pricking, nad nickng.i

64. /• ult. aftir tbi word avoided, add^ Whiift4he Cvder is yet ferment-
ing in the casks, there' (hould be a ba^n of day round the bung*
hole, which is continually to be kept full, and what rifcs tQ the
top daily Ikimaied off. tp prevent any hardnefi from it.

;-r

-«*-i^

DISSERTATION

O N

CYDER and CYDER-FRUIT,

By HuoH Stafford^ of Pynes in Devonihire^ Efqi,

la a Letter to a Friend i bearing date 1727*

SIR,

SINCE you have fcen the Royal Wilding appk^
which is fo very much celebrated, (and fo verv dc-
fervcdly) in our county ; the hiftory of its oeing
firft taken notice of, which is firefli in every body's memo-
ry, may not, perhaps, be unacceptable to you. The iingle
and only tree from which the apple was firft propagated,
is very tall, fair, and ftoutj I believe about twenty feet
high : It ilands in a very little quillet (as we call it) of gar-
dening, adjoining to the poft-road that leads from Exeter
to Oakhamptony in the parifh of St Thomas ^ but near the
borders of anodier pari(h called Wbitejlone : A walk of a*
mile from Exeter w^l gratify any one, who has curiofi^.
With a fight of it.

It appears to be properly a wildings that is, z tree raifed
from the kernel of an apple, without having been grafted,
and (which fcems well worth obferving) has, in all proba-
bility,, flood there much more than feventy years ; for two
antient perfons of the parifh of Wbitejlone^ who died feve-
ral years fince, each aged upwards of the number of years
before mentioacdy declared, that when they were boys^

B probably

■ . ♦

2 A Dijfertation on CYDER

probably of 1 2 or 13 years of age, and firft went the road.
It was not only growing there, but, what is worth notice,
was as tall and ftout as it now appears, nor do there at
this time appear any marks of decay upon it that I could
perceive.

It is a very conftant and plentiful bearer every other year,
and then ufually produces apples enough to make one of
our hogflieads of cyder, which contains fixty four gallons,
artd this was one occafion of its being firft taken notice of,
and of its affording an hiftory, which I believe no other
tree, ever did : For the little cot-houfe to which it belongs,
together with the little quillet in which it ftands, being
feveral years fince mortgaged for ten pounds, the fruit of
this tree alone, in a courfe of fome years, freed the houfe
and garden, and its more valuable felf, from that burthen.
« Mr FtamisOIiver (a gentleman of the neighbourhood,
and, if I miftake not, the gentleman who had the mortgage
juft now mentioned) was one of the firft perfons about Exe-
ter that affedled rough cyder, and, for that reafon, pur-
chafed the fruit of this tree every bearing year : However,
I cannot leswn that he ever made cyder of it alone, but
mix'd it with other apples, which added to the flavour of
his cyder, in the opinion of thofe who had a true relifli for
that liquor.

Whether this, or any other confideration, brought on
the more happy experiment upon this apple, the Re-
verend Mr Rooert Woolcombe^ Reftor of Whitejione^ who
ufed to amufe himfelf with a nurfery, put on fome
heads of this Wilding 5 and a few years after being in
his nurfery, about March, a perfon came to him on fome
bufinefs, and feeling fomething roll under his feet, took
it up, and it proved one of thefe precious apples, which
Mr Wbolcombe receiving from him, finding it perfedHy
found, after it had lain in the long ftroyle of the nurfery,
during all the rdn, froft, and fnow of the foregoing

winter

and CYDER-FRUJT. 3

wintefy thought it muft be a fruit of more than common
value : And having tailed it, found the Juices, not only
in a moft perfed: foundnefs and quicknefs, but fuCh like-
wife as feemed to promife the body, as well as the rough-
nefs and flavour that wife cyder-drinkers in Devon now
begin to defire ; he obfenrea the graft from which it had
fallen, and fearching about found fome more of the apples,
and all of the fame foundnefs ; upon which, without hefi-
tation, he refolved to graft a greater quantity of them,
which he accordingly did, but waited with impatience for
the experiment, which you know mufl be the work of
fome years : They came at length, and, if I miilake not,
his firfl reward was a barrel of the juice, which, though
it was fmall, was of great value for its excellency, and lar
exceeded all his expectations.

Mr Woolcombe was not a little pleafed with it, and talked
of it in all converfations ; it created amufement at firfl, but
when time produced an hogfhead of it, from raillery it
came to fenoufnefs, and every one from laughter fell to
admiration. In the mean time he had thought of a name
for his Britijh wine, and as it appeared to be in the original
tree a fruit not grafted, it retained the name of a Wilding,
and as he thought it fuperior to all other apples, he gave it
the title of Royal Wilding.

This, if I rightly remember, was about fixteen years
fince : The gentlemen of our county are now bufy almofl
every where in promoting it, and fome of the wifer for-
mers and juflment-helders : But we have not yet (for fome
time you know muf): produce that) enough for fale : I have
known five guineas lefufed for one of our hogiheads of it,,
though the common cyder fells for twenty fhillings s and
the South- Ham from twenty five to thirty.

I mufl add, that Mr Woolcombe hath referved fome of^
them for hoard ; I have tafled the tarts of them, and they
come nearer to the quince than any other tart I ever eat of.

B 2 Wherever

— M. . «a

/
/

4 j4 Difertation on CYDER

Wherever it has been tried as yet, the juices are pcrfeftly
good (but better in fome foils than others) and when the
gentlemen of the Soutb^-Hams will condefcend to give it a
place in their orchards, they will undoubtedly exceed us
m this liquor, becaufe we muft yield to them in the apple
foil : But it is happy for us, that at prefent they are fo
wrapt up in their own fufficiency, that they do not entertain
any thoughts of raiiine apples from us ; and when they
fhall, it muft be another twenty years before they can do /

any thing to the purpofe, tho' fome of their thinking gen-
tlemen, I am told, begin to get fome of them tranfported
thither (by night you may fuppofe, partly for fliame, and
partly for fear of being mobbed by their neighbours) and
will, I am well affured, much rejoice in the produiftion.

I am perfonally acquainted wdth Mr Woolcombe^ and if I
may be miftaken in fome circumftances of the hiftory, (as
it is here related) I can promife you I have the fubftance
from his own mouth, and am fo perfedly pofleiled with a
perfuafion of the excellency of the cyder, that I doubt not
m the courfe of twenty years more, when gentlemen have |

furniftied themfelves with the fruit, and farmers have fallen
in with it alfo, this county will be rendered abundantly hap-
py in it ; and therefore I could really wifh, that whenever
the original tree decayeth, (if it ever fhall, though I aflure
myfelf the fruit will never be out of ufe) his ftatue (carved
out of the ftump, by the moft expert hand, and over-laid
with gold) may be eredled near the publick road, in the place
of it, at the comq;ion charge of the county.

What other fruit there may be in nature, neither I or any
one elfe can fay, becaufe it is well known whenever we fow
the kernels of apples, we have alwavs variety of new and
unknown apples produced 5** but I will venture to affirm, I
never tafted any cyder equal to it, (not all the genuine
Hereford I ever drank j that of the White-fmr only excepted,

(of

•. V

o»rf CYDER-FRUIT. j

(o/ which more hereafter) and as yet the competition betwixt
that and the Royal Wilding continues undetermined.

The colour of the Royal Wilding Cyder, without any
afliftance from art, is of a bright yellow, rather than a red-
difli beerifli tindlure ; its other qualities are a noble body,
an excellent bitter, a delicate (excufe the expreflton) rougn-
nefs, and a fine vinous flavour : All the other qualities you
may meet with in fome of the beft Sautb-Ham cyder, but the
laft is peculiar to the Royal Wilding and the White-four on-
ly, and you will in vain look for it in any other.

Before I leave the Royal Wilding, I muft let you know
that it is fometimes called (though no lefs injurioufly than
inaccurately) the Red-Hill Crab j from the name of that
part of the highway near which the original tree ftands,
which is called Red-HilL

This name is injurious, becaufe Crab (as yet) is ufed
amone us in a fenfe of diminution, at leaft, if not of re-
proach ; and was it not fo, it is plain there is nothing in that
name which fuggefts the fuperlative excellency of that
fruit ; whereas the title of Royal Wilding carries in it the
preference which it defervedly hath to all other cyder-fruit
yet difcovered.

And it is alfo inaccurate> becaufe I rather take it for an
apple than a crab, (of which, however, fince you have
tnem before you, vourfelf may judge :) for I muft further
let you know, tnat though we trequently take the word
apples for the whole kind, (as we call the whole kind horfes,
including mares, horfes,) yet, when we fpeak more
ftridtly, we underftand the word apple in oppofition and
contradiftinftion to the Crab^ which moft commonly is
a very fmall, harfti, yellow fruit, and ordinarily growetK
in our hedge-rows, though they make very large, and laft-^
ing trees ; however, I have feen one fort of this very fmall,
harfh fruit finely ftreaked with a red outfide ; and in my
njeighbourhood there is one tree of another kind of them,

which

^ '• i

6 4 Biffertatim on <:YDER

which is red both iniide and out, and is the only one of
that fort I ever faw or heard o£

Since I have thus had occaiion to mention the Crabs, it
may not be improper to inform you, that, the excellence of
them for cyder was never commonly known (if at all) until
within thefe late years : They were formerly fufFer'd to fall
and be eaten by the hogs, when they would eat them (which
was not always, becaufe of their harihnefs) or elfe to rot on
the ground ; but they are now fo well underftood, that
they fell at a much greater price than the common apples,
and we begin to propagate diem, by grafting, in our
orchards! though, in my opinion, they do much better in
cyder, when mixed with other fruit, than when pounded
by themfelves. Their ufefulnefs was firft difcovered by
pounding fome of them for vinegar, which, when tafted,
proved much better cyder than aiiy of the common fort in
our county.

However, there is a much fmaller fort of crab with us,
not larger than the top of one's thumb, (and I think they
never make a tree, but grow only in bufhes) which wc
never put into our cyder, but ufe only to make vinegar.

You will not, it may be, think it improper if I take no-
tice to you in this place, that cyder jnade of all forts of wild-
ings, (th^t is, as I firft faid, of apples prupagated from ker-
nels, and never grafted upon with any fort of fruit, though
you may graft them on what ftock you pleafe) is ever found
to be exceeding goodi and much preferable to that made
with our common apples. There is a gentleman in the
neighbourhood of Exeter ^ who hath now large plantations
of them, which furniih him with admirable liquor, but
the beft of it wants the delicate and moft diftinguifhed fla-
vour of the Royal Wilding and White-four j nor did I ever
meet with it in any Wilding (nor indeed in any other apple)
except in one fort of Wilding of my own, of v^hich I mail
fay lomething by and by« I have only to aidd concerning

the

and CYDER. FRUIT^ 7

the Royal Wildbig, that within diefe twelve or fbarteen
years^ I belie^re more than two hiindred thou&nd of the
grafts hare been propagated in this and the neighbouring
counties ; and, if I miftake not, I heard about two years
fince, that fome of them were lent for from York/hire ;
and what would jom fay if they fhould be tranfplanted to
the Rhine ? This is not altogether fo improbable as you
may imagine ; for a gentleman who carried fome of the
Wnite-Sour with him into Germany, (and, as I hare before
faid, no one can tell which of the two is the beft) afTured
me, that when he had ' much celebrated the richnefs of
his cyder, a Germany whofe expectations of this extraordi-
nary liquor was much raifed, when he tafted it, cryed out,
he found nothing in it, for it was only like their Rbenijb.

And thus much for the Royal Wilding. I am now to
let you know as much as I myfclf do of its only rival, the
White-Sour, of which, however, you will find I have
much lefs to fay, than on the other beloved fubjeft, becaufe
I am at fome diftance from that part of our county which
chiefly produces it, and becaufe it feems to be in a great
meafure co-incident with many of the things I have before
told you of the Royal Wilding.

Cy*//&f White-Sour Apple,

This is a yellow fmall apple, which falls from the tree
very foon ; there are two, or (as others fay) three forts of
them, but the beft is what they call the Pimerg White-
Sour, (though why fo called I cannot tell you) and is the
fmallefl ; there were fome of them in my neighbourhood
a great many years fince, and I know not whether they
might not have been difperfed in fome other parts of our
county ; (but they are the genuine produce of that part df
the country called the South-^HamSy bounded by the rivers of
7reng and Dart) and are not yet common in the other
parts of it, though we do now promote them as fafl as we
can, as we think we have Royal Wildings enough.

The

V. .-w

/^-

S A Differtation on CYDER

As far as I can learn, they have been long in the Smtlh
Hams^ but, until within thefe eight or ten years, in fo bad
reputation, that cyder made of them fold for one half the
value of the other cyder, as a gentleman of that country
(very well fkilled in the cyder of thofe parts) told me.

The qualities of the juices are precifely the fame with
thofe of the Royal Wilding, nay, fo very near one to the
other, that, as I often before fuggefted, they are perfedtly
rivals, and created fuch a conteft, as is very uncommon,
and of which I was an eye-witnefs. A gentleman of the
Soutb'^Hams^ whofe White-four cyders, for the year, were
very celebrated, (for our cyder vintages, like thofe of the
clarets and ports, are very different, in different years) and
had been drank of by another gentleman, who was a hapn
py poffefTor, and uncontefled lord, facile princeps^ of the
Royal Wilding, met at the houfe of the latter gentleman
a year or two after j the famed Royal Wilding, you may be
fure, was produced, as the beft return for the White-Sour
that had been tafled at the other gentleman's : And what
was the effect? Each geiltleman did not contend, as is
ufual, that his was the befl cyder ; but fuch was the aequi-
librium of the juices, and fuch the generofity of their
breafls, (for finer gentlenjph we have not in our cdunty)
that each affirmed his own was the wbrft ; the gentleman
of the Scmtb-Ham declared in favour of the Royal Wilding,
and the gentleman of our parts in favour of the White-Sour.
In the mean time, (the company which was publick and
very numerous) could not decide the controveriy, becaufe
(being gentlemen of the ftrifteft juftice) the White-Sour
was not then prefent to fpeak for itfelf : But thofe who had
tafled each of them, as far as they could jtidge from the
reprefentation& of their memories, remained under a dou^(
which to give the preference to.

The manner in which the White- Sour came to fliew it-
felf in its true luflre, was thus > our befl and ftrongeft

cyders.

ti <■»* I m r- — ^

£^W CYDER-FRUIT. 9

cyders, and thofe which have the boldcft roughneif, which,
perhaps, is the cafe with all apple juices, grow harder the
longer they ftand on their grofs-lyes ; and confequcntly, the
fooner they are taken ofF, the more they are foften'd : We
therefore chufe to rack them from the fouler or thicker
lyes, as fbon as we perceive they are tolerably well fepara-
, ted; which, according to the fairer or more difturbed wea-
ther, is commonly in two, three, or four days -, and the
fofter you would have your cyder, the more frequently you
muft rack it, though not more than three or four times ;
the weaker cyder will not bear it above twice.

By this method the White-Sour was firft brought into
repute ; and I have, within thefe ten days, tailed of that
cyder, (brought from the Soutb-^Hams) made a year fince,
and bottled laft fummer, as perfedlly fine, fweet, and mel-
low, as if it had been brought that morning from the
pound : and together with that fweetnefs it had all the
roughnefs and boldnefs, which is the glory of our Cyder :
Wife people, indeed, would be more fparing in the firft
racking, that they may thereby deftroy that lufcipufnefs,
which, though it may be acceptable to a Female, or a
Londoner^ is ever ofFenfive to a bold and generous TFeft--
Saxon.

What I have now faid of racking the fFbite-Sourj holds
good of all other better cyders likewife, and is the true
reafon of the reputation the Soutb^Ham cyder hath acquired
of late years : A fhort account of which will not, pernaps,
prove unacceptable.

The importation of that Claret, in which our loyal gentle-
men u'sd to drink cburcb and kingy was prohibited from France
at the Revolution. It was impoflSble they could live without
generous liquor, and as impoflible to have it in a fair way
from Bouraeaux : They had endured an half-famine, (that
of drink,) and as Magtjler artis ingeniique largitor venter^

C they

.m^tmttm.^^m

lo A Dijfertation o^ C Y D E R

they apjfty'd thcmfclvcs to improve the produce of their
own fruit.

This method of frequent racking, was happily and fuc-
cefsfuUy thought of» by which Ihey found their rougher
fruits fo much mended, that I make no doubt, if a free
trade with France was now again opened, the import of the
fmaller Clarets would be abundantly leflen'd, and twenty
years hence, when the Royal Wilding and Wbite-^Sour become
more known, Bourdeaux itfelf will feel the effeds of it.

Whilft I am fpeaking to you of racking, I may inform
you, that a perfon in my neighbourhood, who had the
White-Sour in his orchard many years, (though either by
mixing it with other fruits, or for want of a talent of pro-
claiming it, he never contributed towards railing its reputation)
hath told me, that unlefs you watch it carefully, and take
its firft feparation from the grofler lyes, (which will be in
a very few days) it is a difficult matter to get it fine after-
wards. And this, perhaps, would be a good rule to be
obferved in all the ftronger cyders ; though whether this
was his cafe in a fingle year only, (and fuch cafes are fre-
quently to be met with) or whether he always found it fO|
I do not remember if I enquired.

What I have faid of racking (which properly fpeaking,
is drawing it from one clofe caik into another) may be as
well, if not better, practiced by getting a very large vat or
kieve, which will contain a whole pounding of cyder, and
the jpummice, as we call it, (that is the grofler parts of the
pulp of the apples, which, will, though ftrain'd at the
pound through a range, mix with the juice). You (hall find
It in lefs than a day to rife at the top, and in a day or two
more at moft to grow very thick j and as foon a& little
white fermentations break through it, (about the fize of
your finger) immediately draw it off^ under^icath at a foflet*
hole ; for if you fufier it to continue any longer, all the
head^ which is then become a thick cruft, will fink to the

bottom.

and CYDER-FRUIT. u

I'ottom, and thk ferves inftead of the firft racking : But
by letting your cyder continue a lefs or greater time on thofe
lyes in the clofe cafks, you may harden or foften it at your
pieafure, as yoa likcwife may by frequent after-rackings ;
but this is a method which weaker cyders will not endure^
one or two rackings at moft is all they can bear, as they
have not body and fpirit enough to undergo more fucb
operations.

One thing is not yet taken notice of in thefe Cyders,
concerning meir age, and the time of their continuing good.
The moft frequent conmiendation you meet with of other
cyders, is, that they will keep three,- four, nay fevcn years ;
but I muft confefs I never yet tailed any cyder, but what
was in the greateft perfedion, the firft year : I have heard,
indeed, of cyder (and particularly fomc crab-cyder)
which is not drinkable the firft year, mellowing and grow-
ing excellent the fecond or third; but I never had the
pleafure of making the experiment: however, (unlefa
there be fbme fuch ill-natur'd cyders as are a Noli me tan--
gere the firft years) I will venture to fay the Royal WtUifig
and Whtte^Sour will keep good as long as any other, tho*
they are never as good in any of the following years as they
are in the firft.

Let me, to clofe the account of thefe liquors, affure )rou,
that I have heard them authoritatively intitled the Derjon'^
jhire Stire 3 I have feen Bourdeaux and even Burgundy ftand
negleded before them 5 and I have heard white wine
called for to cool them.

So much for Royal Wilding and White-Sour. You de- .
fired to be informed of the Meadyate. The Apple itfelf
hath been fent you, and therefore I fay nothing of its fize,
figure, Gf^k only I muft tell you (which I ftiould alfo have
faid of the White-Sour) that it is a very conftant and plen-
tiful bearer every other year, and maketh a very handfome

C2 ,(tha*

12 A Dijfertation on CYDE R

(tho' not exceeding large) tree, nor is it fo liable* to blights
as moft other trees are.

The juices of it have all the body and roughnefs of the two
other cyders before fpoken of, and make good advances to
the fame golden colour ; but, alas ! want the perfedting
and diftinguifhing flavour of thofe neftars : nor, when
made by itfelf, is it rarely or ever to be got drank up. I did,
indeed, once tafte fome cyder, fent to a gentleman for a
prefent, which was faid to be all of this fort, and which .^

might vie with the beit Royal Wilding or White-Sour ;,
but had I talk'd with the maker himfelf, I imagine, I ihould
have found there was a mixture of other fruits tvith it i
this is certain, that by means of its noble body, and excel-
lent roughnefs, it is a moft valuable apple, and becomes an
excellent ingredient in cyder, when difcreetly forted with
- fruit of a briiker and quicker nature.

It is commonly faid to have its name from a Meadow-
gate, near which the original plant (the happy parent of
this laudable apple) firft ftood ; for in the vulgar diale<£t^f
our country, we call a Meadow, Meadj (I know not how
to convey to you the true found of the laft fyllable) or
by the fame way of fpeaking, we call a Gate a Teate^ (as
the lawyers write Yeoven for Given) and thefe words
■joined together, according to our pronunciation, will afford
MeadyeatCy which is eafily changed into Meadeate^ and
that as eafily into (as the better fort pronounce it) Mideatey
tho' whether this etymology is juft, I will not take upon
me to determine, not being fo well acquainted with its
hiftory as with that of the Royal Wilding.

The apple hath been long known, and is common in
the orchards of feveral farmers, (but of more gentlemen)
tho' until of late there were but few of thofe farmers that
fet any great value upon it.

Thefe are the forts of apples, in our county, which do
as yet bear the greateft reputation for Cyder. You defired

and CYDER-FRUIT. 13

of me further, an account of fome Wildings of my own,
which yielded a liquor that was talk'd of every where,
about three years fince j and in that alfo I fhall endeavour
to gratify you. They were the produce of fome kernel
of the Redr-ftreak Apples, which, when fit to be tranf-
planted, I fet round two fields near my houfe (fince turned
into orchards) without ever grafting them : The generality
of them (whether cramp'd by the adjoining hedges or not,
I can't jeally fay) make but a fmall tree : The apples from
them are various, moilly very fmall, (as. all Wildings ufu-
ally are, but the fmaller the apple the better the cyder, ia
a conftant rule among us) and generally ftreak'd with red,
and many of them not very much unlike ; tho' from the
kernels of the fame apples, you know, we have always very
different forts of fruits.

Befides fome other differences of lefs note to be obferved
in thefe Wildings, the fruit of a few of the trees is confi-*
derably larger than that of the generality of the others, and
fome of them are more ftreaked with red than others are.

I had no opportunity of making a trial of them by them-
felves, until the memorable year i724» And then they
afforded me a whole pipe of the liquor ; which when
rack'd and fined, about February^ to my no fmall pleafure,
in the opinion, and to the admiration of every one as well
as myfelf, ravifh'd the palm from Mr. Wbolcombe'% Royal
Wilding ; and was, in a pleafant Converfation, nanied by a
gentleman, who thought it deferved a high title, Super^
CelejiiaL Another gentleman, in allufion to Pyne^^ the name
of my houfe, and to the common ftory of the Weji-^lndia
Pyne-^apple^ (which is faid to be the fineft fruit in the world,
and to reprefent every exquifite flavour that is known) de-
termined, it fliould be called the Pyne-apple : and by ei-
ther of thefe names indifferently it is talked of, (for alas \
it is long fince drank out, nor hath any other bountiful-
year as yet yielded another fupply) when pleafentry and
converfation bring the remembrance of it to the table,

which:

14 A Diprtation on CYDER

which it wiU ever do until fome happy feafon fhall again
bring more of the liquor itfelf there*

I had almoft omitted to tell you, that MxJVooIcomhe
himfelf was fummoned to the conteft between this upftart
Wilding, as he thought it, and his Royal one. The fur-
prife. (and even almoft filence) with which he was feized
at firft tafting its cyder, was plainly perceived by every
'One prefcnt> and occafioned no fmall diverfion. He did
not roundly pronounce it better than the Royal Wilding,
but he fpent a great deal of his cyder knowledge in jQiew-
ing the reafons, why it might well be expedled that the
juices of this colleftion of Wildings, fhould be preferable
to that made from any fingle Wilding, fo great is the
force of truth : And this was all that was infifted on (and
more than was expedled from him) at that time, as well
in regard to the allowances that ought to be made to
our piety for our own progeny, as to his real merit in havinj
difcovered and promoted that other admirable and moi
exdellent apple.

- I muft now honeftly detradl: from thefe triumphs of my
own Wilding, and let you know that what I faid of
the ccleftial title being afligned to it was in the jundhire of
its being rack'd in the cafk; for after it was bottled, and the
advance of the year had raifed it, the juices appeared thinner
than thofe of the Royal Wilding. It partook too much
of the rarefa<5tions of thofe fuperior regions from whence
it had luckily before gotten its name : It continued, indeed,
very excellent and admirable cyder, but was too brifk, or
frificing, whilft the Royal Wilding preferved all its native
virtues ; and from that time was re-eftablifhed in the full
and peaceable poflcffion of the tbmne^ to the no fmall
comfort of Mr IVoolcontbe.

You will yourfelf take notice, that the C)rder from my
Wildings cannot be promoted as the Royal Wilding hatn
been, bccaufe this latter being but a fingle apple, became

eafily

^^CYDER-FRUIT. 15

eafily propagSited ; whereas to make this cyder, one graft
-from each tree in the collection muft be had and put on :
Whether any one of thefe fingly would make fucn cyder,
I much queflion, or whether among them there may be
one or more, which if try'd feparately, might afford a
juice equal (or fuperior) to that of any other apple hitherta
known i I have not yet examined them fo cxadly as to
find any reafon for fingLng out any of them to make fuch
experiment, or, if I had, a long courfe of years muA dis-
cover the event.

I have lately planted out two orchards with Wildings^

from the kernels (or pips as we call them) of the Royat

Wilding ; but the trees are fo very fmall, that they have

not yet afibrded me opportunity for an experiment : The

fruit that any of them have hitherto fliewn, feems to lay a

foundation for expedtadon. Wildings of one fort or ano^

<her, will for the future be, I believe, chiefly cultivated

among us ; and would gentlemen fow die kernels of the ^^

Red-ftrcak in particular, a& I cfid, I fee not why they

might not reafonably promife themfelves the like fuccefs ;

and would they now and then give themfelves the trouble

to promote any one of their Wildings, which to the tafle

feemeth to bid fair for excellent cyder, I know not vdiat

dilcoveries might be made of new cyders ; for who caa

fay, there may not be in the fruitful womb of Pomona $b

{hoot that may equal, or even exceed, the Royal Wilding

or White- Sour themfelves, fince the forts of new apples

that are to be raifed from kernels, are plainly numberlefs ?.

To make this account of our cyders as complete as I can, I
ihall in the laft place, mention to you another fort, which
hath not been heard of among us above fix or feven years :
The name of it is Cockagee, or Cakagee^ (for the word,,
as far as I can learn is Irijh^ in which we are no criticks :)
The fruit is originally from Ireland^ and the cyder is much
valued in that country : About fixteen or eighteen years.

fince.

X- .

i6 A Dijfertation on CYDER

fince (if I am rightly informed) it was firft brought over,
and cultivated about Minehead in Somerfetjhire. Some gen-
tlemen of that county have got enough of it to make five,
fix, or eight hogfheads a year ; and fuch as have to fpare
from their own tables, fell it, I am told, from four to eight
pounds a hogfhead.

A Gentleman favoured me fo far as to bring fome of the
Apples from Ireland^ but before I had an opportunity of J

feeing them, they were fo decayed, that I cannot defcribe
them to you. The Cyder is of the colour of Sherry, (or
rather French White-wine) and as fine and clear : I have
tafted of it from two feveral orchards of Somerfetjhire ; and
the gentleman juft now mentioned, brought fome of the
cyder as well as the apples, from Ireland : It hath a more
vinous tafte than any cyder I ever drank ; and as the fight
may deceive a curious eye for wine ; fo I believe the tafte
might pafs on an incurious palate for the fame liquor : It
feemeth alfo to be very fpirituous, and would, I believe, if
experienced, foon intoxicate ; but wanting the generous
roughnefs, the fine and delicate flavour, and the full body
of our Royal Wilding and White-Sour, it is, in my opinion,
(and in that of far the greater part of . thofe gentlemen I
nave ever talked with) by many degrees inferior to thofe
cyders of our county, lefs acceptable to the palate, and
lefs grateful to the ftomach.

I have lately put on fome grafts of them, but not enough
(nor have they yet had time enough) to enable me to try
what Cyder they will make with me. I may, perhaps,
another year, fet on fome more of them ; but I aflure you
for curiofity only, and becaufe the Cyder is talk'd of, not
for any other ufc I ever intend to make of them.

I am, &€.

SECT.

-^Treatise ottCYDER,&c.

s E c t: I.

\d catalogue of Cyder-apples in Herefordftiire and Devon-
fliirc, with tbetr excellencies and Hijiory.

A V I N G now given Mr Stafford's remarks, I
Ihall now, without farther interruption proceed to
my own. As I would recommend but a few kinds of
apples for making cyder, it is neceflary there (hould appear
in the catalogue, only fruits of an eftablifhed reputation,
and whatever is excellent for fruitfulnefs, quick growth,
duration, hardinefs, and plenty and goodnefs of juices, I
fhall^ therefore proceed to treat of Cyder-apples of fuch
qualities.

TCbe White-Sour.

This 1 place firft, becaufe it is the moft early ripening
Cyder- apple that has any goodnefs : The fruit is rather
fmall than middle fiz'd, of a whitifh colour inclined to
yellow, is apt to drop from the tree like all other fummer-
fruits when near maturity, which is in Auguft.

This fruit produces, without foftening of it by rackin?,
a potent juice, agreeable to lovers of rough-cyder, and is
ufeful to the dealers in this liquor, as it communicates life
and fmartnefs to their ordinary dull cyders made of vulgar
. fruits# The managenient, hereafter recommended in the

^ following pages, for other cyder intended to be made

mellow, will reduce that of the White-Sour to a moft
agreeable fweetnefs, and is therefore in the places where it is
made, of more value per hogfliead, than any other cyder,
becaufe it is ufed to correct the harfhnefs of other cyders,
by which they are rendered much more valuable. The
fweet White-Sour Cyder has the effect of a rich cordial
or confe<3:ion, a quality which is of great fervice in
preparing cyder for a market.

D As

i8 A Treatife wf C Y D E R

As this fruit ripens before almoft every other, it is no*
ceflarv to plant a confiderable number of trees more of
this than any other kind, becaufe a mixture would weaken
its flavour, and it is fo ufefiil in meliorating other cyders.
The fruit is faid to be of Devon/hire extradtion, and of that
part of the county, called die Soutb^Hams^ but, for cer-
tain reafons that will appear hereafter, this is to be doubted^
The tree is very hardy, and as it is a quick grower, will
in a few years become a large tree ; it is very fruitful even
in a growing flate ; it is not unconunon for an old tree to
produce a hogfhead of cyder, or more.

7be Elliot,

Is of Hereford/hire extradUoh, and, though it ha^ a dif^
ferent name in fome ports, is to all intents and purpofes
the fame apple as the preceding ; for neither fruit nor tree
can be diilinguifhed from the White-Sour ; the time of
ripening of both, and the juices alfo are precifely the
fame* The Elliot was known in Hereford/hire before the
White-Sour had a name, as I have been informed by very
intelligent perfons.

7be Herefordfliire Red-Streak^

The original name of this Apple was the Scudamore^crab^
It has a long time defcrved the reputation of fuperiority
to all other cyder-apples, in agreeably fuiting every palate.
'Red'Jireak Cyder was, fome years fince prefcribed at London^
by a Phyfician of the firft rank to a confumptive patient,
as containing fome qualities uieful in afliiling the lungs to
difcharge any oppreffivc obflruitions.

This fruit has the peculiar excellency of having the
rough and fmooth blended- in fuch due proportion as to
render it palatable to all.

The

and CYDER-FRUIT^ 19

The tree and fruit are fhiall iizedj and proves that na*
ture is pftcn fparine of her beft gifts. The common way
of propagating it has been by truncheons, or cutting ofF a
large branch, and thrufting it a foot or more into the
ground, which in a few years becomes a bufhy tree and
exceeding fruitful j and this property retards its growth.
But trees of a larger 6ze may be produced by grafting it
on the fbrkles of a vigorous tree of fome other kind.

Though this kind of fruit is not at ail fuitable to the
circumirances of a tenant, yet where it is planted in re-
gular orchards, one between every two of the larger grow-
ing kinds, as they take up fo little room, and it will be
long before the ethers require that room; it may in this
manner furnifh cyder for a gentleman's table, and be alfo
profitable enough for fale.

This fruit is very fmall, beautifully ftriped with red,
and fometimes yellow within ; the juice is generally of ti
Very high colour. The Rsd^ftrtak make no durable tree.

^e Fox-Welp.

This is an Apple long known, and of late years has
acquired a much greater reputation than it had formerly.
The fruit is rather fmall than middle-fiz'd, in fhape long,
and all over of a dark red colour. I have been told, by
a perfbn of credit, that a hogfhead of Cyder from this fruit
has been fold in London for eight pounds or eight guineas,
and that often a hogfhead of French Wine has been given
in exchange for the fame quantity of Fox-^welp. It i^
faid to contain a richer and more cordial juice that even
the Red-Jireak \x£t\{y though fomething rougher if not
foften'd by racking. The tree feems to want the fame
helps as the Red-flreak to make it grow large. It is of

D 2 Here-

.^^

20 ATreatifedn CYDER

Hfrefordjhire extradion, and Mr Philips has celebrated'it»
praifes in his Pomona.

» *

Backamore. .

This Fruit is rather large than middle ' fiz*d, of a flat
{hape, beautifully ftreafc^'d with dark red, and has a blooih
on it like a plumb ; it makes an excellent ftrong and
palatable Cyder, preferred by fome to any other, for
having a fmack or bitterncfs, and a poignancy which imi-
tates the Red^ftreak. It has a high coloured juice, which
may be heightened mucli by long: keeping, the apple;
but then the bitternefs will be entirely loft with a great
deal of the poignancy. Frequent rackings will render it
equally agreeable to tfie lovers of fwcet cyder, with- any
whatfoever. It makes, / a ' little before Chriftmas, an
excellent tart aaiid fweetmeat, having a touch of the
Quince. This tree lucceeds very well in fome places,
both in growth and fruitfulnefs, but in others, in the
common nurfery manner, is long before it arrives to any
bignefs, >yh?ch fault is to be effectually remedied by
grafting it on a tree of , another vigorous kind, alr-eady of
fome bignefs. It has its name from a farm fo called in
the parifh of FUmton Mary near, Plymouth.

TA^,A4(iDYATE, ^r Meadiatb.

This Apple has /foitiething the tafte of thic Fox- welp,
is rather imall. than middlo-fis'd, of a long £|iap9e, and
produced in cobs 5 it is of a yellovv colour coofimonly^
though I have feen fome a little faintly ftrcakcd with red ;
it ripens- very late $ k is^faid to have its. birth in the parifh
of Jinn:ngtojtj ntzx Fly mouth.

The Mydiate has, among feveral others, this peculiar
quality, that where it is but the twentieth part in making

^ J

and CYDER-FRUIT. 21

« hog(head of order, it will be predominant 5 it is, there-
fore, very ufeful to mix with ordinary apples which are
apt to make heavy infipid cyder* When the cyder of
this apple is received into a mug, there generally appears
a , bluifli dew or bloom round the fides of it. Of this
Apple is made that fort of liquor, which in Devonjhire is
caird Hewbrambie^ or Bramble Cyder ; alluding to its
roughnefs, which caufes a fenfation as if a bramble had
been thruft down the throat and fuddenly fnatch'd back
again. The lovers of rough cyder in this county gene-
rally give that of the Midyate the preference, as moft
agreeable to their tafte, of all the rough cyders. Not
long fince, few perfons in thefe parts, who would be
efteem'd judges of cyder, would give their opinions in
favour of that which is fweet ; but of late that party de-
clines very faft, and people are come into another way
of tailing and thinking j and feem convinced, that thofe
exceffive rough juices, which fome time fince were fo
highly praifed, are really too fretting and hurtfully alFe<3:-
ing the nerves of even the moft robuft conftitution, though
gouts and rheumatifms are not common with us.
• Notwithftanding the Midyate Cyder may be very much
foftened by racking, yet I doubt whether it can be re-
duced to any degree of that mellownefs, of which the
juices of almoft all other apples are capable.

The Midyate makes a beautiful tree, and after fbme >
years becomes wonderfully large and fruitful, and will ^
admit of being planted on a poor foil, even if very much
expofed, and is very little liable to fuffer from blights.

Ibe RoYAL-WlLBING.

This tree produces rather a fmall than middle-fiz*d
fruit, of a yellowifti colour, of fhape rather long than
flat, and is of long duration. The tree feems to be de-

figned .

'••••c

22 A Treatife o» C Y D £ R

£gned by nature to furvive the oak, being equally, or
perhaps more^ compact in its parts ; though a very quick
grower, it acquires a large nature in a few years, and in
Its fliape refembles a Pear-tree. Whoever plants this
tree is a friend to poftcrity, becaufe it is apt to tii*e all
patience before it becomes fruitful s though there are
trees in fcveral parts of Denmfhirej which have produced
pretty large quantities of fruit, of the immediate pofleflbr's
own erafting^ Till it has two or three times born a quan-
tity of fruity its ihape is pyramidical, but afterwards it
becomes a beautiful fpreading tree, and moft abundantly
fruitful ; it feems to be the beft flock for grafting on, for
making large and lafting trees.

It was accidentally produced near Exeten

^e Stiar.

The fruit is middle fiz'd, of a longifh fhape, in colour
of a pale yellow^ makes a bold, flrong, malculine Cyder,
has great reputation in Hereford/hire and Ghucefterjhire^
and is celebrated by Mr Philips ; but I have often tailed of
this cyder, and could never difcover any thing extraordi-
nary in it The trees are long before they become fruitful,
and after many years it makes a large tree.

QmJey^Bridge Crab.

This tree produces its fmall fruit in cobs, and is of an
uncommon colour, being of a dirty purple and green.
The old trees are exceeding fruitful, as appears by two
now flanding near the faid bridge. The great quantities
of fruit gathered from one of thefe trees in one year is
incredible, as well as what it produces almofl every year>
and what it produced feventy years pafl in one feafon, is
no lefs remarkable. The old tree which is very large and
fpreadine, (though I have feen much larger) with one
unaller ftanding in a hedge by it, are faid to have produced

tf«^ C Y D E R-F R U I T. 23

in one year upwards of fix hogflicads of cyder. The juice
of this fruit, without repeated rackings, is an auftcre cyder,
but is capable by often racking of being rendered foft and
pleafant, and agreeable to the moft delicate palates.

^be Common Crab.

This fbmetimes makes a large tree, but is more general-
ly a mere fhrub.

I have tailed Cyder made of this fruit, which had re-
mained three years in a cafk after making, and afterwards
three years in bottles, and it had undergone but one racki-
ing till bottled off.

It was, when I tafted it, a bold ftrong mafculine liquor,
like Old-Hock, which wine I have drank in cellars of no^
mean reputation.

It m^ea firft excellent verjuice, and is not only the
moft liked for table ufe, particularly with falad,. but is an
wholefome ineredient in making punchy and void of the
pernicious qualities of other acids, ufed for that purpofe y
and is efteemed a fovereign Antifcorbutk.

Colonel Speke,, of Somerfetjhtrey &^% Dr Beak, fhewed
me in his park ftore of Crab-trees, of fuch huee bulk^,
that in the then fertile year he offered a wager, mat they
would yield one or two hogfheads of liquor each of themj;
yet were they fmall dry Crabs-

The CocKO Gee,

This fruFt is of Irijb extradlion, the name fignifyihg m^
that language Goofe-^turd. It may be thought to contain
. fome extraordinary qualities, by the eagcrnefs that has
appeared in feveral gentlemen in procuring fcions of this
kind for grafting, and by the many encomiums made on
it by thofe who are lovers of the cyder. I have tafted it,,
and (as Mr Stafford fays) I find nothing extraordinary in.
it r 'Tis true, it has a vinous golden pipinary flavour.

CounfcUor Pyw, a gentleman who refided near ExeUr^,
and who had me care of Sir William Court enaf^ eftates ini

Ireland

24 ATreatife on CYDER

Ir eland y is faid to have brought it into England. I believe
how it came here at firft is not certainly known, but it
was propagated in Somerfetjhirey before even its name was
known in Deyonjhirey where it is now pretty niuch en-
creafed.

Though the number of Cyder-fruits here taken notice
of are but few, they are more generally known, and
more generally planted than others, and they have been
found to make the bcft Cyder, as well as to produce the
greateft quantities of an intrinfick goodnefs, the Red-Jireok
excepted. There are an infinite number of other kinds
which may be of equal or fuperior goodnefs, but are not
fo generally known ; for inftance, the Apple well known
in fome parts by the name of Flat-four^ or Great FlaU
fouTy will, with uie fame management, make a liquor of
equal goodnefs with the White-foury and the fame of
others that are alike in tafte, and in other qualities ; but
this *none of thofe kinds, whofe juices are foft and mellow,
and fit for the table, (which mellownefs indicates the laft
ftate of maturity) are capable of arriving at. However,
where it fhall happen, that orchards already planted have
no kinds of apples that partake of the excellencies of
the moft celebrated Cyder-fruits ; then it is necefl!ary that
there fhould be a provifion made, by planting fome of
the beft kinds for mending dull, heavy, and infipid juices,
by way of ingredients, which their more noble qualities
will eflfedt. Some are of opinion, that with good ma-
nagement any kinds of apples will make good cyder, but
experienced connoiiTeurs do not concur with them. I
have, indeed, tafted of Cyder made of vulgar fruits fo
perfectly fweet as to eflfefl: . the tongue like drops of ho-
lieyj but then, for want of *a poignancy blended with
that fweetnefs, it clogs the ftomach, and occafions vomit-
ing or purging, or both, and is apt foon either to pall^
or become four.

aW CYDER-FRUIT. 2j

In Devon/hire it b -a maxim, which merits obfervance,
that in planting an orchard^ the feveral excellencies of the
kinds intended for that purpofe fliould be previoufly well
confidcred, whether they arc fuch as are inclined to make
large, lafting, and kindly trees, fruitful and hardy, and
not fubjeft to blights, which frequently make them mifcarry
in their bearing, that the fruit they produce make the beft
cyder, and that all the kinds may ripen about the fame
time, or at two or three feveral times, in quantities of
each fort fufficient to make a tunning at one time ; which
laft properties are of no fmall confideration, for the m'ore
commodious and regular making of cyder.

As to planting, it is impomble to fix any determinate '
diftance neceilary to be obferved between tree and tree,
or the lines and rows in an orchard, becaufe the cir*-
cumftances relating thereto, are fo many and variable,
in different lituations iuid foils, for the low, deep, tnoift,
and un^ous foil; with iheltef and ferene air, will ptxanote
the growth of plants much more than the higher, ihal-
lower, drier, lefs iauhy, and mcffe expofed iituation ; and
- as the feveral growths of uccs are fo unlike one another,
fome inclining to a pyramidical or conic form, others to
fpread, and fome in the beft fituation or foil become but
mere flirubs or bufhes ; whilft fome acquire the bulk and
Ibturc of Oaks, w flicx>t their ered; branches towards thft
Ikies J fo tliat without being acquainted with the growth of
each particular kind, no rules can be formed for propor-
tioning the diftances ^ for left than half what is neceilary
for a i^djate^ or Wbitt^fnttt^ is enough for a Red^Jireak^
«ndibc^th«rc&

£ . , Mr. "

26 A Ireatife on CYDER

Mr. Miller has thought proper to gWe diredions. for
planting orchards, which are here recited.

' In planting of an orchard, great care fhould be had tc

* the nature ofthe foil, that fuch forts of fruit as are adapt-

* ed to grow upon the ground intended to be planted, may
' be chofen, otherwife there can be little hopes of their

* fucceeding j and it is for want of rightly obfcrving this

* method, that we fee in many countries orchards planted

* which never arrive to any tolerable degree of perfeftion,

* their trees ftarving, and their bodies are either covered

* with mofs, or the bark cracks and divides, both which

* are evident figns of the weaknefs of the trees ; whereas,.

* if inftead of apples, the orchard had been planted with

* pears, cherries, or -any other fort of fruit to which the-

* foil had been adapted, the trees might have grown very

* well, and produced great quantities of fruit,

' As to the pofition of an orchard, (if you arc at fiiU.
' liberty to chufe) a riiing ground, open to the South- eaft,

* is to be preferred j but I would by no means advife t&

* plant upon the fide of a hill, where the declivity is very

* great, for in fuch places the great rains do commonly
' wafli down the better part of the ground, whereby the
' trees would be deprived of proper nouriihment : but

* where the rife is gende, it is of great advantage to the
' trees, by admitting the fun and air between them better

* than it can upon an entire level, which is an exceeding
' benefit to the fruit, by diffipating fogs, and drybg up

* the (lam]is, which, when detained among the trees, do

* mix with the air, and render it rancid : If it be defend-

* ed from the Weft, North, and Eaft winds, it will alfch

* render the fituation ftiU more advantageous j for it is.
' chiefly from thofe quarters that fruit-trees receive the
' greatert injury : Therefore, if the place be not naturally
' defended from thcfc by rifing hills, (which is always to b«

* prcfcrr'd.

«»^ CYDER-FRUIT.

preferred) then you fhould plant large growing timber trees
at fome diftance from the orchard, to anfwer this purpofe.

* You fhould alfo have a great regard to the diftance of
planting the trees, which is what few people have riehtly
confidered ; for if you plant them too clofe, they will be
liable to blights, and the air being hereby pent in amongft
them, will caufe the fruit to be ill tafted, having a great
quantity of damp vapours from the perfplration of the
trees, and the exhalations from the earth mixed with it,
which will be imbib'd by the fruit, and render their
juices crude and unwholfpme.

* Wherefore I can't but recommend the method which
has been lately pradlis'd by fome particular gentlemen
with very good fuccefs j and that is, to plant the rows of
trees four-fcore or a hundred feet afunder, and the di-
ftance of the trees in the rows three-fcore feet. The
ground between the trees they plough and fow with
wheat and other crops, in the fame manner as if it were
clear from trees, and they obferve their crops to be full
as good as thofe quite expofed, (except juft under each
tree when they are grown large and afford a great fhade)
and by thus plowing and tilling the ground, the trees
are rendered more vigorous and healthy, fcarcely ever
having any mofs or other marks of poverty, and will
abide much longer and produce better fruits

* If the ground in which you intend to plant an orchard
has been pafture for fome years, then you fhould plough
in the green fward, the fpring before planting the trees ;
and if you will permit it to lie a fummer fallow, it will
greatly mend it, provided you ftir it two or three times,
to rot the fward of grafs, and prevent weeds growing
thereon.

* At Michaelmas you fhould plough it pretty deep,
in order to make it loofe for the roots of the trees,
which fhould be planted thereon in OSlober^ provided^ the

E 2 ' foil

28 ATreatifeon CYDER

« foil be dry ; but if it be moift^ the beginning of March
« will be a better feafon.

* When you have finilhed planting the trees, you

* fliould provide fome ftakes to fupport them, othervrife

* the wind will blow them out of the ground ; which
« will do them much injury, efpecially if they have been

* planted fome time ; for the ground at tfiat feafon being

* warm, and for the moft part moift, the trees will very

* foon pufli out a great number of young fibres, which^

* if broken off by their being difplac'd, will greatly re-

* tard the growth of them.

' In the fpring following, if die feafon fhould prove

* dry, you fhould cut a quantity of green turf, which muft

* be laid upon the furface of the ground above their roots ;

* turning the grafs downward, which will prevent the fun and

* wind from drying the ground, whereby the expence of

* watering will be faved ; and after the firft year mey wilt

* be out of danger^ provided they have taken well.

* Whenever you plough the groimd betwixt thefe trees^

* you muft be careful not to go too deep amongft their

* roots, left you Ihould cut them ofi^> which would

* greatly damage the trees ; but if you do it catitioufly,

* the ftirring of the furface of the ground will be of great

* benefit to them ; though you (hould obfervc, never ta

* fow too near the trees, nor fiifFer any great- rooting

* weeds* ta grow about them, which, would exhauft the:

* goodnefs of the foil, and ftarve 'em.

* If after the turf which was laid round the trees be

* rotted, you dig it gently about the roots,, it will greatly^

* encourage them.

* There are fome perfons. wlio plant naany forts to-

* gether in the fame orchard, mixing the trees alternately;,

* but this is a method which fhould be always avoided \\
^ for hereby there will be a very great difference in the

* gtpwth or the trees, which will not only render them^

* unfightly

and CYDER-FRUIT.

unfightly, but alfo render the fruit upon the lower trees
ill-tafted, hj the tall ones over-fliadowing them, fo that
if you are determined to plant feveral forts of fruit on
the fame fpot, you fhould obferve to place the largeft
growing-^trecs backwards, and fo proceed to thofe of lefs
growth, continuing the fame method quite through the
whole plantation \ whereby it will alfo appear at a di-
ftance in a regular flope, and the fun and air will more
equally pafs throughout the whole orchard, that every
tree may have an equal benefit therefrom.

* The foil of your orchard (hould alfo be mended once
in two or three years with dung, or other manure,
which will alfo be abfolutely necefTary for the crops
fown between j fo that where perfons are not inclinable
to help their orchards, where the expence of manure is
pretty great ; yet as there is a crop expefted from the
ground befides the fruit, they will the more readily be
at the charge on that accounts

* In making choice of trees for an orchard, you fhould
always obferve to procure them from a foil nearly a-kin
to that where they are to be planted, or rather poorer,
for if you have them from a very rich foil, and that wherein
you plant them but indifferent, they will not thrive well,,
efpecially for four or five years after planting, fo that
'tis a very wrong pradHce to make the nurfery, where
young trees are raifed, very rich, when the trees are
dcfigned for a middling or poor foil. The trees fhould
alfo be young and thrivmg ; for whatever fome perfons
may advife to the contrary, yet it has been alv^rays ob-
ferved, that though large trees may grow arid produce
fruit after being removed, they never make fo good
trees, nor are fo long liv'd^ as thofc which, are plalnted
while young.

* Thefe trees, after they are planted out, will require
no other pruning but only to cut out dead branches, or

*^ fuchi

3© A treatife o;^ C Y D E R

fuch as crofs each other fo as to render their heads con-
fus'd and unfightly : the too often pruning them, « or
fhortening their branches, is very injurious, by their de-
caying in fuch places where they are cut, and occafion-
ing a great quantity of lateral branches, which will fill
the heads of trees with weak fhoots.

* It may, perhaps, feem ftrange to fome perfons, that I
fhould recommend the allowing fo much diftance to
the trees in an orchard, becaufe a fmall piece of ground
will admit of yery few trees when planted in this me-
thod ; but they 11 pleafe to pbferve, that when the trees
are grown up, they will produce a great deal more fruit,
than twice the number of trees when planted clofe, and
will be vaftly better tafted 5 the trees, when placed at a
large diftance, being never fo much in danger of blight-
ing, as in clofe plantations, as hath been obferved in
Hereford/hirey the great county for orchards, where they
find, that orchards fo planted, or fo fituated, as that the
air is pent up among the trees, the vapours which arife
from the damp of the ground, and the jperfpiration of the
trees, coUedl the heat of the fun, and rene6l it in ftreams fo
as to caufe what they call a fire-blaft, which is the moft
hurtful to their fruits ; and this is moft frequent when
the orchards are open to the fouth fun.

* But as orchards ftaould never be planted, unlefs where
large quantities of fruit are defired, fo it will be the
fame thing to allow twice or three times the quantity of
ground j fince there may be a crop of grain of any fort
upon the fame place, (as was before faid ;) fo that there
is no lofs of ground. There may be a large avenue of
apple-trees extended crofs a neighbouring, field, which
will render it pieafant, and produce a great quantity of
fruit; or there may be fome fingle rows of trees
planted to furround fields, &£.'

What

^W CYDER-FRUIT. 31

What Mr Miller fays, of adapting fruits to the foil, is
certainly very juft, not only of different fruits, but the'
different forts of the fame fruit : it has been obferved of
apple trees, particularly that one kind will ftarve in the
fame foil, where another kind will thrive ; fo that labour'
and coft would be thrown away; in perfifting to plant'
fome favourite trees, when we difcover no fuccefs after re-
peated trials : It is more advifable to be contented with
fuch as are obferved to thrive in our neighbours orchards,*
or in our own. * ,

As to planting apple-trees in orchards, at very great di-
ftances, it can only refpedt fuch fituations as are ffieltered
very well from ftorms. By the obfervations I have made,,
apple-trees . are never fo fruitful as when they are planted
near to each other, by which, they afford mutual fhelter, '
and though *tis faid, that planting trees in that manner is
attended with blights, damps, fire-blafts, &c. thofe who^
are .uiiacquainted with different parts of the kingdom,
(efpecially thofe near the fea) very well know, that with-
out clofe planting there can be no hope of fuccefs 5 for
they protedl one another, and will not grow without fuch
protedtion ; and the trees would haye their bloffoms blafted
and blown, away by the impetuofity of the winds.

They plant orchards in the weftern parts of England,
only on fuch fpots as are too ileep for the plough, and
where the foil is unfit for jKifture.

As Mr Miller was born and refided near the Metropolis,^
he muft be unacquainted with parts remote from London^
and thofe only within a few miles of it were familiar to him,,
as appears in various inftances of his directions, which
fcem to be calculated chiefly for Middlefex^

Planting

K .

32 A Treatife on CYDER

Pluiting trees in arable and meadow land, can only iuit
feme particular Situations, and if they are to be planted at
very great diftanceE, nothing lefs than planting wholly over
an ei^te of two or three hundred acres can be produ<^ve
of any great quantity of cyderj for a generation ot two ;
but orchards are fuppofed to become proiitat^e in about
fifteen years after planting, which continues to encreafe ;
and were it not lo, very few tenants would be prevailed
upon to plant orchards. Mr MilUr*% method, therefore,
feems only calculated for men of great fortunes, and as
great patience, and who may be inclined to provide for fu-
ture generations.

His advice to avoid frequent prunmgs of applc-trecs,
is very right, and alfo to plant apple-trees to form large
avenues extended crofs the neighlwuring fields ; which
will not only render them pleafant, but produce a great
quantity of fruit.

SECT,

y *

-ii^

^r^fwrn"^'^

md CYDER-FRUIT.

S E C T. U.

Of coUeBiing Cyder-fruits into heaps ^ fn order for the conti-
nuing therein as hf^ as is confijlent for the maturation of
their juices%

I. TTN Devon/lire the coUfeding Apples into heaps, in
X fomc vacant airy parts of an orchard, is a conflant
and necefTary practice, more particularly for their latter
hard fruits, by which means that maturity in their juices
is acquired^ which would otherwife be wanted ; fuch
hard fruits without this help being apter to produce a Ver-
juice than an agreeable Cyder. Every one ktiows how
maturity is promoted by heat, and now the Fruiterers
fweat their fruits, fuddenly to prepare them for a market,
by which they attain that ripenefs in two or three days,
ivhich, in a natural way, would not be effefted in fo mafiy
weeks. And even fome of the mof^ valuable hard C)rdeiv
fruits ^n a natural manner would never mike Cyder nt for
rufticks^. As it h^ been thought ^neceflary in every part
of England to lay the harder Cyder-fruits in heaps for
fome time before breaking their pulps, the Devon/hire peoi^
pie have much improved the prance $ in other counties
the method is to mike thefe heaps of apples in a houfo,
or under fome covering inclofed on every fide i this me-
thod we found defeftive, heclufe by excluding the free
air, the heat foon became too. violent, and a too great
perfpiration enfued, by which, in a fhort time, the lofs
of juices > was fb great, is to reduce the fruit to half their

♦ Of decay 'd Fruits is made, by the Frnitcrers, or Cyder- merchafntu -
at ^eenhithej that high coloured friiky Cyder that is fold In and about
^L^nasfifot Rbd-streak.

F former

34 A Treatife on CYDER

former weight, attended^ with a general rottennefs, rancid
fmell, and difagreeable tafle. In the South-HamSy a mid-
dle way has been purfued to avoid the inconveniences and
* lofs attending the aforementioned pradice; they make
their heaps of apples in an open part of an orchard, where,
by the means of a free air and lefs perfpiration, the defired
maturity is brought about, with an inconfiderable wafte
of the juices and decay of the fruit, intirely free of jairfc-
ncfs ; and though fome apples rot even in this manner,
they are very few, and are ftill fit for ufe ; all continue
plump and full of juices, and very much heighten the co-
lour of cyders, without ill tafte or fmell.

In purfuing the Devonjkire method it is to be obferved,
I. That all the promifcuous kinds of apples that have drop'd
from the trees, from time to time, are to be gathered up
and laid in a heap by themfelves, and to be made into
Cyder after having fo lain about ten days.

2. Such apples as. are gathered from the trees, having
already acquired fome degree of maturity, are likewife to
be laid in a heap by themfelves for about a fortnight;

3. The latter hard fruits^ which are to be left on the
trees till the approach of froft is apprehended, are to be
laid in a feparate heap, v^here they are to remain a month
or fix weeks, by which, notwithftanding froft, rain, 6fr;
their jrficcs will receive fuch a maturation, as will prepare
them for a kindly -fermentation, and which they could hot
have attained on the trees by means of the coldnefs of the
feafon.

It is obfervable, that the riper and mellower the fruits
are at the time of collefting them into heaps, the fhorter
fhould be rfieir continuance there ; and on the contrary, the
harflier, inunaturer, and harder they are, the longer they
Ihould reft.

Thefc

■ JL

imd CYDER. FRUIT.

Thefe heap fhould be made in an even and open part
of an orchard, without any regard to covering from rain^
dews, or what elfe may happen during the apples ^ayiiig
there^ and whether they be carried in and broke tn wet
or dry weather, the thing is all the fame; if it may he
objected, that, during their having lain together in the
heap, they may have imbibed great humidity, as Well
from the air, as from the ground, rain, dews, Sfr. which
are mixed with their juices, the anfwer is, this will have
no other eflFe(S than a kindly diluting, natural to the fruit,
by which means a fpcedier fermentation enfues, and all
heterogeneous humid particles arc dirown ofF.

It is a conftant pradiice in the Ifles of J^fey and Guern-
fen^ to put a pail of water into every fermenting hogfhead
of Cyder, to dilute and fet its parts more quickly at liberty.

By purfuing the above methods, befides making the beft
Cyder, hurry and expence will be prevented, as they re-
quire no roon^ within doors.

SECT.

^ A

I ••

"S^'ji

36 A Treatife m CYDER

SECT. III.

Direfims for breaking the Pulp of Jpfks with proper

Engines.

AMONG other improvements in C^der-making, the
People in Devonjhtre have been fuccefsful in their
invention of an Engine ^ which leaft bruifes the fkin, pulp>
and kernels of the apples ; for ' fudi as leaft do fo are to be
preferred^ becaufe from an immoderate breaking of them, in
fome kinds of apples, there proceeds fuch an aufterity and
bltterneis, as the Cyder never can be cured of.

To evince^ that there is fuch auilerity attending the
(kins or rinds of fome particular fruits, the Pear called the
Winter RouJJelit is an inuance ; this fruit, when the fkin is
taken oiF^ is in efleem at the table, but without this treat*
ment it has fuch a roughnefs as renders it uneatable.

The Engine I here recommend is work'd by coggs and
rounds, wnich turn two or more tumblers ftuck full of
teeth. In fome places it is work'd with horfes, but where
moderate quantities of Cyders only are made, it is
work'd by hand. I forbear a further defcription of it, fup*
pofing it to be at prefent in ufe where-ever Cyder is made in
the different counties in England. Its further excellencies are,
it quicker diipatphes the work ; the pummice of the ap*
pies brqke therewith, produces Icfs foul Cyder when it
comes from the wring, alfo much fooner, and it certainly
becomes fine after ; and is lefs liable to harfhnefs and ill
taftes in the vat and caiks, than what is broken by any
other engines*

SECT.

z^^

/wf^CYI>ER-FRUIT. 37

SECT. IV.

Of the management Qf the Pummice^ or broken Pulp before

exprejfing the Juice.

TH E Puramice of the Apples is to be received into
a large open-mouth'd veuel, capable of containing
as much thereof as is fufficient for one making, or one
cheefe. Though it has been a cuftom to let the pummice
remain fome hours in the veflel appropriated to contain it,
yet I would by no means advife the practice ; for if the
fruits did not come ripe from the trees, or otherwife ma*
tured, the pummice continuing in the vat too long,, will
acquire fuch harfhnefs and coarlenefs from the fkins as ne*
ver to be got rid of; and if the pummice is of well-ripcn'd
fruit, the continuing too lone there will occafion it to con-
trad a jfharpneis that very onen is followed with want of
fpirit, and pricking, nay, fometimes it becomes ar rant Vinegar^
or always continues of a whe3rifh colour ; all which pro*
ceeds from the heat of fermentation that it almoft inftantly
&lls into on lying together ; wherefore I recommend, that
the pummice remain no longer in the vat, than until there
may be enough' broke for one preffing, or that all be
made into a cheefe> and prefs'd the fame day it id
bfoken.

^'#

& E C T.

• I

38 A Treatife m CYDER

SECT. V.

Oj the Wrings or Prefles, Checfes, or Cakes of Pummice, Qfr.
and proper VeJJehfor receiving the Cyder from them.

OF all the Prefles now in ufe throughout the kingdom,
there is none to be compared to the great Wring or
Prefs with two fcrews, work'd or brought home with a
capftan, either for a quicker difpatch of the work (as fre-
quently a cheefe or cake is made that produces a tun and
half of Cyder) or for prefiing dry, and keeping the cheefe
upright and together, or with more eafe, as it requires but
two men to work it.

A JOefcription cffuch a Cyder-prefs, and its feveral Parts.

(See the Plate.)

The great or upper beam, in which are female fcrews,
(hould be feventeen feet four inches in length ; and two feet
fix inches or three feet fquare, either of one folid piece of
timber or more ; when formed of feveral pieces, they
fhould be firmly united with wooden keys, and bound
about with iron braces, near and on eacii fide each hole
where the fcrew pafiTes.

The whole length of the pieces, out of which each
fcrew is to be formed, ought to be fourteen feet fix inches,
viz. ten feet the Ihaft of the fpiral line, or fcrew. Two
feet the fquare part, containing the holes for letting in the
hand-fpikes for turning the. fcrews, and two feet fix inches
for the fpindle.

The fpindle of the fcrews, which fliould have the fame
diameter as the ftem of the fpiral line, muft be let into
fockets made in a large beam of equal dimenfions with
the upper beam. This great beam is to reft on the floor.
The diftance between the fcreWs fhould be eleven feet
ten inches.

The

iwdT C Y D E R - F R U I T. 39

The reafon for leaving the upper and under beam fo
long on the outfide of each fcrew, and the fpindles is, tb
give the ends of the beams more ftrength, as the fcrews
and fpindles otherwife would be apt to make the ends
open.

The holes for admitting hand-fpikes fliould be quite
through, one hole above another, that the fcrews may be
turned with two hand-fpikes at the fame time.

The holes fliould be guarded by two iron plates to pre-
vent their wearing, which fliould be faftened with two iron
btnds, bracing round that part of the fcrew, and neceflary
to ftrengthen it.

The Buckler, which is to cover the top of the Cheefe
or Cake, is an aifemblage of thick planks, united and
ftrengthened by fubftantial traverfe pieces of eight inches
fquare, to which the planks are faftened by oak pins. On
tne traverfe pieces are laid two floors of clocks of wood,
each croiling one the other, on whkh depends the upper
beam.

The Buckler is fgme times made round, and fome times
fquare ; in the dimenfions of either, great allowance muft
be made for the fpreading of the Cheefe or Cake, when very
much prefled. The round Buckler may be fomething
more in diameter than five feet, and the other five feet
fix inches fquareJ

The Floor of the Prefs may be compofed of elm planks,
three inches thick and feven feet fquare, joined together
by fubftantial tiaverfe pieces of eight inches thick or
fquare, placed about the diftance of one foot from each
other, to which the planks of the Bafon are faftened by
oak pins. Every part fliould be very firm and well con-
nedled, as the floor muft refift a very great force and
preflure, when the upper beam is fcrew *d down upon the
Cheefe.

The

+0 A Treatife 9n CYDER

y The Flcxjf is to be born up to the heigh th of two feet
rfix'ihch^ from the ground, and fupported partly by the
.under beam, where are fpaces to be cut for letting down
the traverfe pieces of the bafon, and partly by blocks of
wood, or ilillings laid under it for that purpofe ; there mufl
be care in fixing the bafon, that every part bears equally
on each other.

Between the fcrews and the bafon, on each fide, will be
a fpace of two feet clear, for a paflage round the bafon,
except where the under beam crones.

Tne Stage or Bafon is to be flop'd with a gentle declivity
from the feat of the cheefe to a grove or gutter, which is
made near the edges of the Bafon, to convey the expreflfed
juice of the apples into a vefiel fixed under the middle of
the fore part of the Bafon.

Befides this groove or gutter, there mufi: be a ledge
nailed round the fides of the bafon, to prevent the Cydef
from overflowing the baibn, which it will be apt to do
on the firft prefling.

In fixing the baibn on killings or blocks. It ihould be
obfcrvcd, that it (loops a very little on the fore part, that
the Cyder might tend that way in draining from the
Cheefe.

. The Capftan is placed at about twelve feet diftance,
more or lefs, from one of the fcrews, and is made ufe of
softer two men, or more, have ufed their utmofi: efforts to
fcrcw down the great beam 5 then they have rccourfc to
the capftan, by which they fcrew down the great beam
fomething lower, and the Cyder runs a-frefh, and the
cheefe is fqueezed quite dry.

The length of the capftan depends, as does its diftance^
from the fcrew, on the conveniency of fixing a beam for
taking in the uj^er fpindle j it ought to be eight or ten
feet; the under fpindle is let into a focket made m a
fquare block of wood funk into the ground. It ought to
be fo large as not to be apt to ftart. The

arW CYDER-PRESSES. 41

The end of the rope which is round the capftan is faft-
ened to the end of a hand-fpike which is in a hole of the
fcrcw, and the capftan turned till the hand-fpike is brought
fo near the capftan as to have no more purchafe ; then the
hand-fpike is put into another hole, and the fame repeated.
The capftan is turned by poles of about twelve feet ia
length, run through the fquare, or holes of the capftan,
and form a crofs. fhefe poles are fixed about two feet
ten inches above the floor, which fliould be confidered
when the capftan is making, that the fquare and round
parts of it may have proper fituations.

This Prefs requires a fpacious houfe for its reception,
which is the only inconvenience that attends it. Other
prefles may be commodious enough for making fmall quan-
tities of Cyder ; but this is neceflarily required where it is
made in abundance.

A Descr I PTioN of the Poor-Man's Cyder-Prcfs.

For this Prefs, inftead of having the back-pofts like the
former, a great tree, in the place where it is ftill growng,
anfwers all the purpofes, and receives the main beam in
the fame manner.

The ufe of the fore-poft is fupplied by two fliafts or
uprights, of about fourteen feet in length, two feet of
6ach ftiaft, at leaft, muft be let into the ground, that
they may be fteady and firm ; on the top of which fliould
be laid a-crofs a piece of timber, fufficient to bear the
weight of the main beam, which is lifted and lowered by
a tackle made faft to the crofs-piece. The diftance of the
tops of the fliafts may be one foot three inches, and at
the bottom two feet. The but-ends of the fliafts feven
or eight inches thick, and the fmalleft ends four or five
inches.

G Thefe

42 A Treaufe on CYDER

Thefe uprights, or fliafts, Ihould be creiSed about fix
feet from that end of the beam where the weight is fuf-
pcnded.

The main beam, which is ufually a tree un-hewn, or
fquared no otherwife than to prepare it for the ufe intendcd>
may be about twenty fix feet long, about fix or fevca
inches thick at the fmalleA end, and a foot at the butt»
about a foot of which ihould be made a tenet with {boul-
ders ; this enters the mortife of the growing tree, on
each fide of which mortife is nailed a piece of timber five
inches thick, through which is bored four or five holes at 3
foot or ten inches diftance, one over the other, for admit-
ting an iron bar, of two inches diameter at one end, and
to be a little taper'd towards the other ; this bar prevents
that end of the beam which is in the tree from rifing
when the other end is lower'd.

The iron bar is either put a hole higher or lower for
accommodating the beam to the height of the cheefe ; be-
caufe, as it is flattened and prefied more together, the end
of the beam muft be lower'd and alfo the bar.

Within four inches of the fmall end of the beam, and
on the upper fide, is funk a channel, about an inch deep,
to receive a collar made of a very ftrong rope, or fcveral^
this collar muft have room for a leaver to pafs through it>
the thickeft end of which Hiould be about four inches an<^
half, and the leller end three.

At about four inches from that part where the collar is
hung muft be a mortife, for what is called a ladder of
holes to pftfs trough, to the end of which ladder is fuf-
pended five, fix, or feven hundred, or a thoufand weighty
in the top of which may be an icon eye^ hook, or crook^
for hanging it to an eye, or crook, of the ladder of holes,
which ladder is fometimes a bar or plate of iron, half an
int-h thick, three inches and half broad, and feven or
ci^ht feet long} there ihould be holes of three quarters

/jWCYDER-PRESSJES.

4-3

t)jr an inch diameter, or very little more, for receiving an
iron pin, of a proper fize, that may eafily be put in and
drawn out ; thcfe holes (hould be about four inches one
4bove another.

But when this ladder of holes is made of wood (which
it fometim^s is) the holes fhould be made, as fhewn in the

margin -, were they made one ovei* another,
in one line, wood would be ineffeftual for
this purpofe : In this, as in the iron ladder^
the holes may be about four inches one a-
bove another^ The piec^, of which this is
made, may be of the fame length as that
of iron, five inches broad, three quarters of
an inch thick, and made of a very tough
tirtlber.

At the lower end of it is & crook for
rtinging the weight, which crook is made
faft to the end of the ladder 6f holes, by
the plate of the crook, in which Are two
holes, or more, for putting through the iron
pin 5 there ftiould be a plate on each fide
the ladder*

The crook, and plate. Ought to be ftrong j
the laft ought to be fix or eight inches lc»ig.

It is by the ufc of this lac^ckr of holes

that the beam is forced dowA, and the

weights raffed ; and by a leaver of feven or

eight feet in length, Vrhich has a notch or

hiortifej of the length of fix inches, and open at the cx^

tremity of the leaver ; this mortife is made itii the greater

end of the leaver, where it fhould be about five inches

thick, and the other end about three'ihches.

This lever is run through the collar, before dcfcribed,
and takes in the ladder of holes into the mortiie, under
the iron pin |)ut immediately over the part where the lever

O 2 is.

44- A Treatife on CYDER

is to have efFe£t ; when two or three men lower the end
which raifes the ladder of holes, and lower the beam,
when an iron pin, which is in a hole above the beam, is
pulled out and put into a hole lower, and the fame done
with the pin below the beam, which is continued till the
weight is raifed above the ground one foot, two, or more ^
which is to be repeated as often as the weight defcends to
the ground.

In order to prefs the cheefe as dry as poffible, the lever
is put into the collar, and an additional weight hung to the
extremity of it.

A cheaper Cyder-Prefs.

There is alfo another fort of Prefs, and method of
making Cyder, ufcd by fome poor people, whofe flock of
Apples is but inconfiderable, or their circumftances in life
but low ; or whofe habitation is^ not contiguous to any
place, where the other fort of Prefles might be come at^
and yet are defirous to partake of the enlivening Juice of
thofe Apples nature has afforded them.

The method is this : They cut a large fquare hole in the
body of a tree, that ftands, or is growing in their garden
or orchard^ about five or fix feet from' the ground*, ul
which hole they fix a l^ge lever or poft, ten or twelve
feet long, or more, fquared at one end,.fo as to enter the faid
hole in the tree. Near to the fide of the body of the tree, un-
der the lever, is placed a large plank which ftands on legs ob
tre0els, or a pile of large flones at each end, about three
feet high from the ground, which plank has a groove or
gutter near the edges, or ledges nailed round its edges, to

Srevent the Cyder from over flowing, as alfo a channel, or
p, in theYorepart, to let the expreiled juice run into, the

^ All thefe feveral heights and diftances may be proportioned according
tp any perfon't difimtion or conveniency, the method being (o fioiple and
pUifl> that no OM can poffibly ccr ia the experiment.

veffcl

and Pummice for CYDER. 45

veflel placed to receive it. After having pounded the ap-
ples to a pummice in the trough vridi a wooden beetle,
they put the pummice into a hair bag, or bags, and lay
them on the plank, putting another plank upon the bag,
or bags, all which is placed under the abovementioned le-
ver,, or bar, and then one or more perfons, with the
weight and force of their bodies on that end of the lever
that is diftant from the tree, prefs out the juice of the
pummice into the veffel,. placed under the plank in order
to receive it.

But this method is not much ufed, neither is it much to
be recommended, where other preffes might be had, be-
caufe the pummice can not be prefled fo dry as in other
preffes, and likewife the danger there is of fpilling part of
the cxpreffed juice in the ufe of it.

A Defcription Qfa Chcefe, or Cake of Pummice. .

A Cheeie, or Cake, in Cyder-making (as it is called in.
the Weftern counties) is compofed of the pummice, or
broken pulp of apples, and long wheaten ftraw, or reeds„
raifed up in a cylindrical form, of different dlmenfions (as
the quantity of pummice requires) on the floor, ftage, or ba-
fbn of a Cyder-prefs, whicn is performed in the following
manner. Firft, there is in laid the middle of the faid floor, or
ftage, a layer of long ftraw or reed, making an allowance
that the layer of ftraw exceed a foot, at leaft, the circle
intended for forming the cheefe ; that after laying on the
pummice (which is to raife the cheefe fix inches) the length
of a foot or more of the ftraw nuy be brought up round it,
and the ends turned in upon it ^ then another layer of
long ftraw is to be added, and another layer of pummice
as before ; and ib ftraw and pummice one above another
alternately, till all the punntmice intended to be preffed is
feud up. Whea

46 " A Treatife on CYDER

When the cheefe has beett /bme time prefs*d, and very
much flattened and Iqueczed broad, the great beam cf
the prefs (hould be railed and the cheefe cut round with a
knife, fuch as is ufed for cutting flacks of hay, and thofe parts
which are cut off laid upon the top, which will raife it
dmoil to its firft height, then the great beam is to be low-*
er'd, and the cheefe again prefs'd till it may be fuppofed
to be quite dry.

But if the great beam be raifed again, And the cheefe cut
round a fecond time, and thofe parts which are cut otf
laid again upon the top, with a proper quantity of water
poured upon them, and the cheefe be again prefixed down,
it will produce an agreeable liquor, for common ufe, call'd
water-cyder, which, when well managed, retains its vir-
tues for feveral months,^ and will even intoxicate a perfon,
if drank too plentifully.

N. B. The ufe of long ftraw is preferrable to any other
contrivances, fuch as the cage, balket, '. .air-bag, &c. for
keeping the pummice together.

The ftraW or reed ought to be clean, and perfedlly frea
from ill fmeUs.

Of the Vt&\for receiving the exprejjed juice.

As the Cyder runs from the Wring or Prefs, it is to be re-
ceived into a veflel fixed virithin the ground for the more
commodious dipping of a ladle ot bucket, and as it fills
from time tp time, to be taken from thence and put into
another veffel or calk that ftands on its bottom^ the head
being flruck out, over the top of which, is to be laid a-crofs
a frame, or two fimple Aicks, a cdarfe hair fieve for ftrain-
ing the Cyder, that the pummice, or gfofler part oi
the pulp of the apples^ mixed with the juice, may be kept
back.

i would

-7«^ CYDER-VESSEL «.

I would caution every one agamft mixing the laft expref-
fcd juices or droppings with the Cyder intended for keeping,
becaufe it is of too weak a nature ; but yet it makes a plea-
fant Beverage, by which name it is known in DevonPjtre,
and if affiled' with a fmall quantity of fpices, will continue
good two months. If it could be had in fummer, oc
would keep fo long, it would fcrve as an agreeable, cool,
refrefhing liquor.

SECT,

48 ^ A Treatife on CYDER

SECT. VI.

Of proper Veflels/^r receiving the Cyda: for its fermentation;
the vigilance^ exaSi care^ and attention required in the
fr/i fermentation of Cyder for making it fweet^ and m
long as it continues in a fermenting Jiate.

I Come now to treat of that, on which the whole fuccefs
depends, in making fweet Cyder, viz. Fermentation,
which is attended with no manner of difficulty ; but care
and watchfulnefs is abfolutely required, and to be well
furniftied with clean cafks in proper readinefs.

In order to avoid a great deal of trouble, and to perform
the work more effeiftually, by divefting the new made
Cyder of what pummice and other impurities remain ; after
ftraining it through a hair fieve, on its coming from the
Wring, or Prefs, it is neceffary to be provided with a
large open vat, keeve, or clive, which will contain a
whole pounding, or making of Cyder ; or as much as can
be prened in onp day : After the Cyder has remained in
this vat a day, or fometimes lefs, (according to the ripe-
nefs of the fruit, of which it has been made, and the
ftate of the weather) you will find rife to the top, the
pummice, or groffer parts of the pulp, &c. of the apples ;
and in a day or two more, at moft, grow very thick ; and
when little white bubbles or fermentations, of the bignefs
of the top of your finger, break though it, then prefently
draw it off* through a cock or faucet-hole, within three
inches of the bottom, if large ; but if fmall, not nearer
than four inches of the bottom, that the lees may not
be drawn off, but quietly remain behind.

* Which in Dtvonjbire la cMzd Priciirg. . *'

I
J

and its Fermentation. 49

if the Cvdcr is not immediately drawn off, on the fir ft
appearance of thefe white fermentations, all the head
which is then become a thick cruft, will fink to the bot-
tom ; fo that, if this crifis (which happens but once) of
the firft feparation of the Cyder from its lees is neglefted,
the opportunity of making fweet Cyder will be loft and
irrecoverable.

On drawing off the Cyder from the vat, it muft be
tunn'd into clofe calks well fcented, wherein, on letting it
remain a (horter or longer time, with what lees and impu-
rities it carried with it| depend the hardening or foftening
it at pleafure.

To have -Cyder perfe<3:ly fweet, "" after it Is tunned into
clofe cafks, you are again carefully to watch and obferve
its ftate, and when you find white bubbles or fermenta-
tions, as aforefaid, at the bung-hole, as before m tlie vat,
immediately rack it off again into another clean and well
fcented caik ; after which, by making frequent trials of its
finenefs (and it commonly happens to be fine in two, three,
four, or five days, or fooner, according to \h^ weather)^
by drawing fome of it into a glafs from a fpile-hole, you'll
diicovcr if proper to repeat the racking, which ftiould
again be immediately done, if found to be fine, which
repetition of racking ftiould be continued till the Cyder is
as fweet as you defire, and ceafes hiding.

It is to be noted, that the weaker Cyders cannot (upport
themfelves under many rackings, one or two beiJig all
they can bear, for they have not body enough to undergo
the operation. But as to the bolder and ftroriger Cyders,
when you intend to render them very foft and mellow,
and perfe(3:ly fweet, which thefe frequent rackings will
effeifl, you may repeat them till they are brought to your
palate, and quieted to fuch a degree as to be entirely mute,
which is an infallible indication of their being abfolutely

*>""^ free

free of impurities, and not liable ta be^ trooliled \^ any
future commotions*

The manner of making rough Cyder dififers^ from that
of the fweet, as it is neceflary to refrain drawing it off, oa
the firft appearance of the white bubbles, as before mci^
tioned, but letting that crifis pafe unregarded, do it on
the next tolerable feparation from the fouler and thicfcer
lees, by which a hifcious fweetncft will be avoided. But
even in rough Cyder, the omiffion df one or two racking*
is attended with a difagreeabk coarfenefs, harflinefs, bitter-
nefs, fetidnefs, and fometime« with all thefe faults, which*
it can never be divefted of. Wherefore I wouM propofi^,
after racking out of the vat, to give it another clarification,
at the end of November or December ^ if made very late.

There muft be care taken, after the fermentation is over,
to fill every hogfhead in the cellar up to the bung, which i*
to be continued once a month, and without which the Cyder
will be apt to grow flat and heavy, and likewife to contra^
ati ill tafte and fmell, from an engendered rancid air lodged
in the cavity between the upper part of the calk and the
Cyder. Vent fhould be fon^ctimes given at a fpik-bole
during the firft three months after the Cyder i% made.
Until it has done hifling, &c. the bung- hole would be beft
ccvered with a tile, flate, or flat ftone, but when found to
be perfectly quiet it fhould be dofely bung'd down.

To make Cyder, or other vinous liquors, it will be of
great advantage to be well acquainted with the bufineis of
fermentation. This Dr. Boerhaave defines and explains a&
follows.

Fermentation is a change produced in vegetable bodies

by means of an inteftine motion excited therein ; the
" effedt whereof is this, that the part which firft rifes from
** them in diftillation, is either a tnin, fat, acrid, hot, tranf-
'* parent, volatile, and uninflamable liquor^ capable of ex-
^* tinguiftiing fire..

*^ The

and its Fermentatioci.

€C

^^ The liquor obtained by means of fermentation, is call-
ed thin, becaufe none appears to be thinner than the fpi -
rit of fermented vegetables ; Acrid, becaufe it a£ts almofl
like fire, when applied to the tongue, or other parts of the
^^ body ; Volatile, becaufe there appears to be no liquor
" that is raifed with greater eafe ; but 'tis this liquor being
^* totally inflamaUe, and at the fame time capable of mixing
^ with water, that ultimately dUlinguiihes fermentation
^ from all odier opwatbns in nature : For neither putre-*
isJdaxm^ digeftion« e^rvefcence, nor any thing of that
kind, will ever afford a liquor at once poflefs'd of thofe
qtianfiies.'

The fernMntation of die juices of fruits is a prepara*
t]¥c for nature's final work, when they are elaboratea and
exalted to their laft perfedtion«

In regard to the making rough Cyder — Though the firfl:
fermentation fucceeds generally well, fo that the whole
mafs of liquor is thereby delivered from g^fs lees ; yet
fometimes, either through fcarcity of fpirits at firft, or
through immoderate heat or cold, fome part of thofe
impurities remain confufed and floating therein.

Then it is neceflary on the firft feparation of thoTe lees,
to rack it into another cafk.

€€

• •••

H a

SECT.

> •» I

•%

- 1 .'

» , >>

i*--

A Treatife on CYDER

SECT. VII.

c»-^

'^he Methods proper to be ufed in preparing Cajks^ Racks, ^v..

AS confiderable quantities of Cycler are every y^-ar ren-
dered of no value, by having contracted ill taftes or
fmelTs, or both, which muft frequently happen, if not
always from carelefnefs, it may not be unneceflary to
give proper cautions for avoiding fuch accidents ; one of
the moft commoA is pilynefs, which proceeds froni maggots
bred by flies in fome part of the infides of the cafks, when
they have not bteh kept clofc ftopt, after their contents
tave been drawn out. As this oilynefs is not to be remov-
ed, the veffel is no longer fit to contain Cyder, or other
liquor for drinking.

There is no better prefervative for a c^fk, to keep it
fweet and tight, than clofe flopping it with the lees in it,
if it be found ; and when it is again wanted for ufe, to wafh
it clean with hot water, after which, and being afTured of
rts being ftanch, Ifet it run out whilft warm, and drain it
dry ; then ftop it up again immediately ; this ought not to
be done h\^ almoft the inftant before it is intended to be
filled with new or other Cyder..

There are ill taftes and fmcUs very often communicated
to Cyder by the timber of new cafks, the caufe of which is
beft removed by often pouring into all new cafks, at feve-
f al timesi a quantity of very hot water, without letting it
remain lon^ each time ; after which drain the cafks dry,.
an4 fill them (one at a time) vvith found lees of Cyder, let-
ting them remain in each calk forty eight hours at leaft.

As the ufe of the match is fo univcrfal in preparing cafks.
for the receptioa of almoft all forts of , liquor, ioflrudions

and the Method of racking it. 53

§bv making it, and fome of its ufcs may not improperly have
a place here, and are as follows.

Take four ounces of brimftone, one ounce of burnt
allum, and two ounces of wind brandy ; put thefe toge-
ther into an earthen pan or pipkin, and hold it over a cna-
£ng difh of glowing coals till the brimftone is melted and
runs 5 then dip therein little pieces of new canvas^ and
inftantly fprinkle thereon the powders of nutmegs, cloves,
and coriander. The fplces, for cheapnefs fake, nxay be
omitted.

This canvas is to be fired and let burn out in the bung-
hole, fo as the fame may be received into the cafk, and
bung*d down tight ; this is faid to be the beft fcent for Cy-
ders. The operation is always to be performed previoufly
to the filling a calk as well to purify it, as to effed: fcveral
other purpofes, hereafter mentioned.

Though racking may be performed with cans or pails,
where there is^but a fmall quantity of Cyder to be fliifted,
yet where it is very great, the bellows are neccflary, or the
crane at leaft, both which and their ufcs are generally *
known.

The Lees of every racked hogfhead of Cyder fhould be
poured into one calk afligned for that purpofe, and after
Handing till the Cyder is feparated from me lees, it ihay
be racked into a veflel of a proper fize to contain it, and
to be made ufe of from time to time to fill other calks.
Some fay this coUefted Cyder is the more fine and ftrong {
but others fay to the contrary ; experience has Ihewn it is^
very good, provided it has been kept very clofc ia the
vejffel where it is coUefted..

SECT.

54. A Treatife on CY D1&K

SECT. VIH.

Prefervatives and Itemedies for preventing and curing Dijlem^
pers which are incident to Cyder ^ with InftruStiom for co^
louring ify &c.

FIRST, as to Prejervatives. The thing necefiary tot^c
known is proper Medicaments for their chronic diften^
pers, viz. lok of fpirh, and decay of ftrength ; concerning
thefe, therefore, it is obfervable, that when Cyder is in a pre-
ternatural commotion, from an excefs and predomination of
the fulphureous parts, the grand medicine is to rack it from
its lees 5 on the contrary, when it declines and tends towards
palling, by reafon of the fcarcity of fpirits and fulphur, the
moft effectual prefervative is to rack it upon other lees,
richer and ftronger than its own ; that being from thence
fupplied with the new fpirit, it may acquire more vigour
and quicknefs.

For this ufe there ought to be a referve of fuch lees m
ftrong bodied Cyders have been rack'd from.

Befides reinforcing of impoverifti'd Cyder; by new and
more vigorous lees, there are fundry confe(!kions, by which
alfo, as by a cordial, the languifliing fpirits may be fuf-
tained, and in fome degree recruited .

A good reftorative confcflion or cordial may be compofed
in this manner. — Take raifirw of the fun, fugar, fpices,
and fhavings of fir y put them into a ftrong fceirted caflc,
wherein are found lees from whence ftrong Cyder has
been drawn, and rack the Cyder into it. The Cyder
being thus recruited by a new lee and the above cordial,
the ^irk diereof may be kept from exhaling by the fpirit
ef turpentine of fir.

4
,<

ami Method of prdenoDg it. 55

. 7o Mp Cy^, imJmed t& Hbur. Tako of whtat^hatf a

pint for a lMDgihea4> bcjit it in kit water ^ it bttakt t i

^htn cold put it into th« hogshead in a hag^ If this does
not fuccee^, add four ouaccs ^f burnt chflUb» aad rack it oft
ftffier three or four days,, imo a vew icented ca^.

jigainji the prickiag of Cyd^r,. ie geoeraJlijr prcfcribcd
ihit eafy aad cheap co«^>ofi£iQfh

Take of the powders of brick, or nsew^ pot-ihards, one
pQund» roach allum half a pouiid» raijc %sA beat them well
with a convenient ^uaojMy of Cyder, and tiben put theca
into the hogfhead.

The Cyder, whofe fweetn^ia ha3 beea preferved by not
haying been fufiered to ferment much, is an excelleni re-
Qiedy for reftoring decayed Cyder. Alfi>i

The nutch has a wonderful efFe<5t in the fame cafe, and
I have known a hogfhead of Cyder fold for twenty {hill-
ings, that before the ufe of it, was not worth fixj^nce.

The myftery of Cyder-brewing confifts in making natu-
ral and mielioratingy found or vicious Cyder.

Sound Cyder is better'd by tin&ely foiing, and by mend-
ing colour, fmell, or tafte.

The making natural Cvder has been before treated of: to
meliorate it, confifts in the match and clarification, which
fometiraes means racking, and fcunetimes fining v?ith in-^
gredients.

All artful clarifications of liquors may be thus brought
about, w». ift. By fcparation of the groffer parts of the li-
quor from the finer. 2dly. The diftribution of the fpirits of
the liquor, which always render bodies clear and untrou-
bled. And 3dly, By refining the fpirit itfelf ; the twx) latter
are confequences of the firft, which is efFedted chiefly by
precipitation^ the inflruments whereof are weight and
. vi&ofity of the body mixed with it, the one caufing it to
cleave to the grofs parts of the liquor flying up and down
in it 2 the other finking them to the bottom.

For

_i .--- - '' . My.

A trtatife on CYDER

» ^

^0 mend Cyders that of end in talie^ few other cor-
redors are neccffary than what conduce to clarification or
racking, feeing almoft all their unfavorinefs proceeds from
impurities iet afloat, and the dominion of tneir fulphure-
ous or falihe parts over the finer and fweeter, which
are removed by precipitation as above.

The beft method to get rid of the flying lees fpeedily,
is thus performed ;

Take of Xlinglafs half a pound, ileep it in half a pint of
the rougheft Gyder, fo that it may quite cover it ; which
let ftand twenty-four hours, then puU and beat the Ifin-
|lafs to pieces, and add mpre Cyder 5 and when it is per-
tedtly jellied, take a piht or a quart Xo a hogfliead ; then
over draw three or four gallons of th«eCyder you intend to
fine, which mix well with the faid quantity of Jelly j then
put this mixture into the caik and beat it with a ftafl^, and
fill it quite full. , '

The dealers in Cyder reft not in clarifications alone,
having found out certain fpecifics, as it were, to palliate the
fcvcrd vices of all forts of Cyders, which make them dif-
guftful. Of thefe I fhall recite a few of the greateft ufe,
and efteem amongft them.

9f(? meliorate Cyder in fmell and tajle^ and to take off karjhnefs.,

Take of Honey one part, of Rain-water two parts, and
one third of found Cyder 5 boil them on a gentle fire to a
third part, often flamming the mixture with a clean fkim-
mer, for which ^urpofe have a pail of clean water ftand-
ine by to rince it in. Let this Ccmpofition ftand till cool,
when allow a gallon thereof to a hogfliead ^ after ufing the
ftirring ftick, let it reft fivt or fix days at the leaft ; then
rack it oflf" into a new fcented caflc, that is, what ha$ been
fcented immediately before.

A Re.

. -^-^

kSftarift

and she Methods of preferving it, 57

A Receipt to help ftinking Cyder.

To help ftinking Cyder, the general remedy is racking
It from its old corrupt lees, and giving it a fragrant fmell or
flavour, by hanging in it little bags of fpices, fuch as Zedoary,
Clove, Cinnamon, Orras-root, grains of Paradifc, of each a
fmall quantity*

To help ftinking Cyder, either from the Straw, Reed, or

Cafk, &c.

Take Maftich and Ginger of each two ounces, Orras-
root half a pound, reduce them to a fine powder, which put
loofe into the hogflbead.

As fuch accidents frequently happen to the beft Cyder,
as well as the ordinary fort, in every cellar, a little expence
ought not to be fpared to render the good of an agreeable
tafte.

To mend ropy Cyder -^ rack it from thfe lees into a new
fcented cafk ; then take of Allom one pound, of Orras-root
half a pound, powdered j beat them well into the Cyder with
a flaff— in which operation, let there be always care taken
not to difturb the lees- — Note, ropinefs feldom happens to
Cyder that has been once or twice tacked.

To correft Cyder, faulty in confijience^ i. e, fuch as is
fouJy lumpijhy or ropy^ Dealers in Cyder generally make
ufe of burnt Allom, Lime, Chalk, Plaifter, Spanijh White,
Bay-falt, and other the like bodies, which caufe a precipitation
of the grofs and vifcid parts of Cyder then afloat, as for
example j

I For

5S A Treatife on CYDER,,

For attenuation of Cyder that is foul and lumpijh^ hav-
ing firfl: rack'd it into a newly fcented ca£k» then making
a parcel of burnt Allom, Bay-falt, and clear Water, adding
to thefe the ilour of Beans, and Rice, each a quart, beat-
ing them all well together with the Cyder, blow off the
froth, and cover the bung-hole with a clean tile or flat flone;
Lafihy the Cyder is again rack'd in a few days and ptit into
t caik well fcented.

To corrcft ranknefs^ eagernefs^ and pricking. Take about
a pottle of the whitefl Lime-flones, flack them in a gallon of
Cyder i then add more Cyder, and ftir all together in a
tub with a Airring-ftick, after which, pour this mixture
into the hogfhead, and having again ufed the flirring- flick,
let the Cyder fettle, and then rack it into a new fceated
cafk.

Note^ Bay-falt alone, the quantity about a pint to a hogf^
head, will both clarify and communicate a brifkinefs—
The Whites of Eggs will fine Cyder by their vifcofity.

In Devon/hire^ in rough Cyder for fummer*s drinking,
it is ufual to put either the Leaves or Flowers of Clary,
which makes it very nearly imitate Rbenijh Wine.

When Apples are of a poor and hungry kind, of made

unripe into Cyder, half flarved in their growth, or nip'd by

^ frofls, having hung too late on the trees, they are generally

* coarfe, by reafon of their great auflerity, roughnefs, jcjuncntfs

and poverty of fpirits ; feldom attaining to a due exaltation of

^ their fpirits, but flill remain turbulent, thick, and in a flate of

crudity ; and therefore eafily palK

After all thefe DiredUons for preferring and curing Cy-
ders, there can be nothing, more propoied, than to preierve
them for a fhort time ^ for there is no refloring fuch Cyders
as are perfe^ly pall'd and dead, or four, which proceeds

from

and the Methods ^ prefer ving it. ^9

firom ft lola of fpirit that is never to be reftored, for nothing
that is paft perfection, and hath run its natural race once,
can receive much amendment $ wherefore I forbear the
mjeotion of what may be efFedted with a very* high re^ified
clean fpirit, becaufe of its inflaming quality, and as it is at**
tended with more coft than worfhip^

As moft of thefe receipts have a particular relation to
CjFders for iale, for fuch as are intended, or are fit for a
gentleman's ufe do not require thefe brewings and adultera-
tions I they ought to be no other than the purer and genuine
juice of tbe Apple, void of fadtinefs of any kind i where-
fore there (houJd be recourfe had only to fuch amendments
a; are produced by mixing one Cyder with another to fit all
palates, as a rougher with a fmoother, to give the latter an
agreeable poignancy, or the fmooth with a rougher, to
foften its aufterity. Alfo racking and the match are necef^
fary operations.

Though a paler or higher colour in Cyder is no mark
of its perfection, yet as there are fome Cyder-drinkers, who
prefer what is inclined to an amber colour, and which has
generally fome weight with an unfkilful buyer, inftrudions
for colouring may not be amifs.

'flid ordinary colouring ufed by dealers in Cyder, is coarfe
Sugar^^ which, though they a little improve very bad Cyders^
yet they give them* a kfting difagreeable tafte. ^

A better tin^re is ufed by all diflillers in London and elfe-
whera, and preferable to that are, two pounds of MollaiTes
put into an earthen veifel, and put over a fervent fire, con-
tiboally ftirring it till it is reduced to half the quantity.

Another colouring is a quart of parch'd Wheat put into
a hogflMfad of Cyder, if intended to make a very high colour,
or lefs, if not fo htglh, which will likewife give a brifknefs and
livdineTs to fiftt> he^ Gydei .

I z But

♦»

'.:-

•

60 A Treatife o;? C Y D E R,

But the beft colouring of all, is made by laying by three or*
four bufhcls of Apples in a clofe chamber, till they become
black and rotten 5 but as every kind of Apple will not be-
come fo, 'tis neccffary to lay by fuch as have been obferved'
to be liable to fuch decay ; thefe Apples are to be broke and
preffed as for other Cyder„ and the juice to be referved for
ufe.

Loaf Sugar will a little heighten the colour of Cyder, but
then the quantity required^ makes the ufe of it too expeniive.

Note^ All Alcalies will blunt the £harpnefs and eagernefs of
Cyders and other Liquors— the continuing vinegar in aa
earthen VeiTel, but a fhort time, will make it become infipid ;
this happens ajiivell from the glazing^ as from its being mad&
of bak'd earth*

There ought to be all imaglnabFe care taken, that no m-
gredient be uied in the management of Cyder, but fuch aa is
perfedlly void of pernicious efFeds.

The Author having been twenty years and upwards, con-
verfant with the whole management of Cyder,, as well for the
ufe of gentlemen, who have been> efteemed connoifleurs, as in
preparing it for a market ; what he has advanced through-
out the whob procedure^ is agreeable to the conftant practice
not only of himfelf, but fuch others as either make great
quantities, or are the moft confiderable dealers in Cyder.

By the management that he has here recommended, there
have been fuch changes wrought in Cyder^ that in one plaqe
particularly, where great quantities were almoft every year
made, and which could hardly ever be drank but by Rufticks,
and even not by them in fummer, as being ropy and wbeyijh
and attended with a rank coarfe tafte,. (as fome Cyders will
be if they remain long on their lees, though, otherwife excel-
lent^) or no tafte at all^ have by thefe directions been improved

and the Methods ^ preferving :/. 6i

to fuch a degree as, that in a plentiful year, forty hog{head»
were fold in a neighbouring town for fourfcore pounds, or
fo many guineas, which in the before common Manner of
snalcing, would not have fold for any thing.

N. B. The hogihead in the weftern part of England^ con-
tains fizty-four g^lons. The Hereforajhire hog&ead is al-
moft double that number of gallons.

Fine grown Apple-trees of the feveral Kinds mention'd
ia this ueati&, jnay be had ef , &c*

A SUPPLE^

(<i8j

daHdMM

il-W

TT •*•

SUPPLEMENT;

S £ C X • I*

TO ^^ 4fit/ifi /d? /^ CbaraSier of the Red Streak.
On drawing a cork out of a bottle of this
Cyder^ you are regaled with a mod delightful
odour, fuch as proceeds from no other ; whether
this is purely natural and particular to the Hereford/hire
growth, or heightened by fome ingredient, I cannot deter--
mine ; but it is certain, that what is made in Devon/hire from
the fame Apple, has it not to fo great a degree, which may
proceed from rackings being much more ufed here than in
Herefordjhire \ and I have obferved, that what has been racked
«ice OTj tsmv^ ^^Xi i^^s it much ftronger than what has
undergone the operation oftener. I have alfo obferved, that
no lees are ranker than of this Cyder ; and though this fine
fmell may in fome meafure be lefTened by racking, yet that

deannefs

ASUPPLEMENT. -63

deannefs of ttfte which is the confequetice, is much to be
prefierr'd*

This agreeable fcent is likened by fome to the fmell of
the fpirit of fweet Nitre, by others to that of Angelica roots
dried ; by the ufe of which powdered or fliced into Cyder,
whilft fermenting, and after patting a fmall quantity into the
caflc, a neighbonring gentleman who has fome Red-ftreak and
more of other Apples, of which he makes great quantities of
fweet Cyder by this artifice and colouring, makes all his Cyder
paft for Red-ftreak, and has very much raifed the value of it,
felling it for one third more than the current price of other
Cyder,

Note, Angelica is ufed in great quantities in preparing
Wines at Port.

An addition to the charaEler of the Stier Formerly it
was almoft- the only apple eftdemed for making a rough
Cyder ; what was fo, in any great degree, was liked but by
few, and perhaps even the juice of this fruit would not here-
tofore have been approved, if it had more than a comparative
rooghnefs ; as mellow Cyder was almoft'the fole drinking. It
is certain, this Juice is not piquant enough to communicate
fprightlinefs and vigour to what is mellow. It may be
efteem'd only in fome degree rough, and much lefs fo than
the White-Joury and Royal-wilding.

By a gentleman who makes great quantities of melloW
Cyder, I have often heard it faid, that he very much wanted
the JVbite-feury or Royal-wildingy to improve what was Jweet
and lumpijhy though he bad an orchard of the Stier, and ano-
ther Apple called the Hempling, whofe juice is of the fame
degree of roughnefs, yet were they not capable of giving that
life and quick nefs which the Whit e-f our ^ and Royal-wilding
can, and which makes it more guftful to the palate^ lighter^
and more generous to the flomach.

64 A SUPPLEMENT.

7o the Crab may Be added, that the Cyder by being the
fummer after makings expofed to the heat of the iiin, as I
have experienced by eDdeavoariog to make it Vinegar in that
manner, and after four or five months fuund inftead thereof,
it was become fofter and much more agreeable.

It is an obfervation with us, that all mellow fruits pro-
duce a rank lee (which is here called a bitter mood) particu-
larly Pearmains, the Cyder of which fruit has a permanent
rank tafte, and of which it cannot be divefted.

The lees of fruits whofe Juices are rough and anflerc, have
a very little degree of ranknels. I have tafted of mediate
Cyder two years old, tunned into a cafk. from the prcfs,
and never racked, that was perfedly free of ranknefs of tafte
and fmell.

Relating to the planting orchards— -'EadLCAVoat as near as
poflible, to plant the feveral forts which are nearly of the
fame growth in one line, that the orchard may be die more
regular, and the trees of an equal height, which greatly adds
to their beauty } for if you plant trees which fhoot very un-
equally in the fame line, one will encroach on the room of
the other, and appear very irregular ; befides the difbmce the
trees are to be planted, mull be dire&ed hereby.

SECT. II.

FRUITS too. long reflcd, ferment but weakly, and
make inGpid wheyifh Cyder — and unripe fruit makes
vcrjuicc-like Cyder-^-both to be avoided.

POST-

\ I

■-~; I:

:l^ rr>

•1 1 «ij.».

fur

rJIau

' as

the

(6s )
POSTSCRIPT.

Before the defcription of the Poottnsin's prefs, page 41, Jhou/d
'" '. bave been infer ted an account of another prefs^ as follows :

TH O' the prefs which I (hall next defcribe, is pretty
generally in ufe in feveral counties where Cyder is
made, it feems to proceed from not being acquainted
with the conveniencies of the former.

This prefs which is a machine, or moving power operating
on the principles of the lever, (as do all the following) con-
tinues to fqueeze out the Juices of apples, by a great weigh t.
To fix this machine, a pit muft be firfl dug five feet
deep, and eight fquare, in the mod commodious place for
the ftanding of the prefs.

In the bottom of this pit is laid a fquare frame of timber
(of the fame length and breadth as the cavity) joined toge-
ther at the angles with fpikes, and pinned with wooden
> pins.

The pieces for forming this frame (hould be at leaft fix
I inches thick, and one foot broad -, the thicker and broader
the better.

On this frame, parallel with the beam (defcribed here-
after) is laid a great block of timber (of the length of the
pit) one foot thick and two feet more or lefs over, as it lies
on the||fiat, through which, at three feet from the hinder end,
fhould be cut a mortile for receiving the end of the back pofb
(which will be here defcribed) which (hould be tennon'd for
letting into the faid morAe, and to come through half a foot,
, and keyed with a wooden key.

In niaking the tennon, there fhould be no more (houlder-
ing than what is necefifary to keep the poft upright and
fteady, that the tennon may be the ilronger.

K The

«.

■*

»'

<»'

( .^6 )

The back poU (hould be formed of a piece of oak, or
other firong and durable timber, of elevcDfeet in length, five
feet of which will be in the ground, and fix above it. From-
within Cix inches of the top, to three feet fix inches down-
ward, ihould be a mortife outfight inches wide, for admit-
ting the tcnnon of the beam.

In the fides of this mortife fhould be bored feveral holes,
about ten inches one above the other, for an Iron pin to pafs
through, which is to keep down the end of the beam when
the prefs is at work.

When thefe parts are fixed, the ,pit is to be filled by little,
and little, with the earth or rubbiih which came out of if,
and continually well rammed whiliL Ailing.

On each fide of the back pof^ (hould be a piece of
timber fix inches thick, and one foot broad. The timbers are
to be faftened to the port by a ftrong fquare key, which pafltt
through them and the poft.

Thefe pieces are to be fix'd at an exaft height, to receive
the bafon or Aage, and born up either by blocks of wood, or,
mafons work.

The back ends of thefe pieces (hould be let into a wall,,
at leaft, eight inches (if more the better) their length before
the poft, ought to advance as far as the fore part of the ba-
fon ; this determines their length. .

This method effeSually fccures every thing from flatting
or heaving.

Within half a foot of the back port, (hould be placed
one fide or back of the bafon, or ftage, for formii^ the
cake or checfe, which will very much contribute to thekeep-^
ing every thing fecure in the botfbri^of the pit, and prevent'
the back poft from ftarting.

The bafon or ftage, is formed of feveral planks of an
inch thick, or common deal boards, joined together, by nail-
ing, to fcvtral ledges of fome ftrength and thicknels.
'-' . . The'.

(6?*;

The balon u^y be about fouf%^^/quare, with ledges
about the fides u |)revent the Cyder frSfioJoverflowing.

The fore part of the bafon fliould have a lip to convey the
Cyder into a veffel placed to receive it.

The bafon fliould be firnmly fapported, and born up a little
more than two feet above the floor buj^yks of timber,
or mafon's work. '^ vJv

The buckler for covering the cake x^cheefe, and on
which the beam is lowered ^r prefling thereof, fliould be a
little more than .three feet fquare, made of planks an inch
thick) nailed firmly (or fafl:ened by wooden pins) to ledges
of four or five inches fquare.

The beam or leverf flipuld be twenty feet or more in
length, a foot or more thrac at the but- end which is to have
a tennon with flioulders for letting into the mortife of the
back poft, where it (houl4 have liberty for moving up and
down.

The tennon fliould come through the mortife^ about fix
inches.

About eight feet fi'om the back pofl:, fliould be two, which
are call'd the fore pofl:s, which ferve to keep the beam from
fwinging to and fro, and to bear it up whilft the cheese or
cake is making, and when the preis is not in ufe.

In a boufe built for making Cyder, the upper ends of thefe
pofts may be commodioufly fix'd to a girder, or other tim-
ber of the roof, or may be made to fland eredl and firm
l^ being let into the ground.

They are fixed in thc^ ground in the iaxne manner.as the
back, and the timber^-on which the bafon reiis, is to ex6nd
to the fore-*pofts, and* iiiht'*fift in the fame manner as to
the back, with^th.e addition of timbers in- the fame manner
near the top of the back and fore-pofts. ,

The back and fore-pofts^ flwuld be eight feet above the

floor.

Tiie.

i- sr

9 '

■^ '^

■*<»

>Cr^ I

\-'

I >

f'^K

The timbers which are fixed near the hea^^the back and
fore-pbfts, (hould be fapported by diagonav^ece^, tennon'd
and . received into iDortifcs in the back and foxc-pofts, and
al/b the tinlbers, or head pieces, and pinn'd, . Qt. let into the
pofl^ and head * pieceSr *,

Sometimes there is ereCled Ibmething like a gibbet. for
making faft a k;{,^: for hoifting thej:>cam. : *

What relates tJ hoifting the beam, flinging the weights,
operations/ and conveniencies, L refer the reader to the de-^
fcription of the following prcls* , ,

* N.,B. In a houfe, the beam is hoifted by a block faftencd
•to fome part of the roof, ^ . -. *. -^ -.-- '

' Otiejide of the framed Prefs^ as iti^appearf j^ut of ^e Ground^:

'with its Beam^ Laddef of HoIes^J^eight^ CdU(^^j and Blocks

fr hoifting the Beam. Here is no proportion^ &c. obfervedj

but only toJJoew the parts. • * ;

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P. -

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JP. J N -i 3.

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Full text of "A treatise on cyder-making, with a catalogue of cyder-apples of character, in Herefordshire and ..."

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